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help!! repair korg EMX 1!
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Chemtek



Joined: 04 Dec 2009
Posts: 10

PostPosted: Fri Mar 19, 2010 3:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i try all the Korg repair shop in portugal, and they all say the same! the mainboard is f*** up! do u think i should try to send it to england for last inspection?? thankx for all the people that try to help!

make some f**** noize!!!
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Yatmandu
Full Member


Joined: 18 May 2008
Posts: 162

PostPosted: Sat Mar 20, 2010 3:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Again, either they're all right, or they're all idiot - so you have nothing to lose now by even short-circuiting the fuse to see if the machine even turns on. Try to find someone with electronics experience, and do a search in this forum for the post with the pictures of the fuse location. I mean, dude, if you send it to the UK, how do you know it won't land on the lap of yet another muppet? Take control of the situation!
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jansson



Joined: 20 Mar 2010
Posts: 1

PostPosted: Sat Mar 20, 2010 3:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi!
Thanks all for this topic. I can confirm that bypassing the fuse did the trick for me. My EX-1 didn't display anything in the LCD (just yellow light). The red cable in the picture fixed my problems and it's now working perfect again. I used a longer cable to be able to insert a fuse in the future.

Greetings from Sweden
//Jansson
www.janssonmusic.com

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xmlguy
Platinum Member


Joined: 26 Nov 2007
Posts: 3605

PostPosted: Sun Mar 21, 2010 5:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

With that jumper loop, you can use a DC clamp-on ammeter to measure the current so that you can select an appropriate fuse to place in-line. Leaving out that fuse could cause more serious damage in the event of another power spike condition.
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Yatmandu
Full Member


Joined: 18 May 2008
Posts: 162

PostPosted: Mon Mar 22, 2010 12:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, please don't operate it without the fuse. What I suggested was to test that your machine is still working. Now go replace that with a proper fuse! My assumptions about the idiot repair dudes was right! What a lazy bunch of monkeys!! I'm glad your machine is working.
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harvestein
Full Member


Joined: 04 Mar 2008
Posts: 109

PostPosted: Tue Mar 23, 2010 12:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This isnt the same guy, I assume Chemtek has given up and is wallowing in despair! Smile
The fuse looks really awkward to replace without using a jump wire though. Damn surface mounted crap! Very Happy
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Yatmandu
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Joined: 18 May 2008
Posts: 162

PostPosted: Tue Mar 23, 2010 2:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ooops, right you are! different guy. hopefully chemtek is not wallowing in korg repairland
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Chemtek



Joined: 04 Dec 2009
Posts: 10

PostPosted: Wed Mar 24, 2010 2:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i am not in despair.....iam searching some that understand something about electronic to touch my machine! but iam really sad that maybe i will not resolve the problem, and i have this machine in the box!
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Chemtek



Joined: 04 Dec 2009
Posts: 10

PostPosted: Wed Apr 07, 2010 9:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hello, i open the machine with a friend and we realize that the fuse1 was fried and the fuse C112(10V) next the fuse1( right in the picture)
was totally burned! we did the bypass in both fuses and the problem continues!
i connected and only yellow screen! please if u can help me more i will be very happy, anyway thankx for all!
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X-Trade
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Joined: 14 Feb 2006
Posts: 6494
Location: Leeds, UK

PostPosted: Wed Apr 07, 2010 9:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Chemtek wrote:
hello, i open the machine with a friend and we realize that the fuse1 was fried and the fuse C112(10V) next the fuse1( right in the picture)
was totally burned! we did the bypass in both fuses and the problem continues!
i connected and only yellow screen! please if u can help me more i will be very happy, anyway thankx for all!


Well that's probably not a good start because C112 is not a fuse!


The fuse is quite obviously marked FUSE1, so why would a second fuse be marked with a C?

C usually stands for Capacitor and does seem to be written next to all the other capacitors on the board...
I'm not sure whether simply bypassing this would cause any damage, but certainly doesn't seem like a good idea.
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Chemtek



Joined: 04 Dec 2009
Posts: 10

PostPosted: Thu Apr 08, 2010 6:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hello X-trade,
thankx for the help, yes u r rigth, C112 is a capacitor, and what u suggest about it? some change, do u think is possible to find capacitors like this? because i didnt find any fuse like fuse1 in shop, maybe i have to send it from another country.

regards
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X-Trade
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Joined: 14 Feb 2006
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Location: Leeds, UK

PostPosted: Thu Apr 08, 2010 6:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fuse1 would be difficult to replace, because it is a surface-mount component. Typically the type that is soldered to the board using a machine, it isn't really designed to be replaced easily. You definitely won't find it in a shop, however you may find it online.
The easier thing to do would be to solder a new fuse of the same rating across those pins, but using wire to get it away from the board - so you don't have to fit it into exactly the same area that it was before. Basically break the wire you have bypassed it with and put the fuse on that wire.

The capacitor should be easier to find.
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Current Gear: Kronos 61, RADIAS-R, Volca Bass, ESX-1, microKorg, MS2000B, R3, Kaossilator Pro +, MiniKP, AX3000B, nanoKontrol, nanoPad MK II,
Other Mfgrs: Moog Sub37, Roland Boutique JX03, Novation MiniNova, Akai APC40, MOTU MIDI TimePiece 2, ART Pro VLA, Focusrite Saffire Pro 40.
Past Gear: Korg Karma, TR61, Poly800, EA-1, ER-1, ES-1, Kawai K1, Novation ReMote37SL, Boss GT-6B
Software: NI Komplete 10 Ultimate, Arturia V Collection, Ableton Live 9. Apple OSX El Capitan on 15" MacBook Pro
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iD4rK
Junior Member


Joined: 31 Mar 2010
Posts: 61

PostPosted: Thu Apr 08, 2010 7:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You are not helping!

Do what the people on this forums say, or do what the technical service says and get a new one if you are so afraid to break something that is already broken.

If you want future advice start posting pictures of your board so we can see it or write down the components that are burned on a piece of paper go to an electronics shop and get the new parts for under 2 dollar and solder them on place, check the polarity.

You have nothing to loose. Now, make your hands dirty.
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Last edited by iD4rK on Thu Apr 08, 2010 10:14 pm; edited 1 time in total
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harvestein
Full Member


Joined: 04 Mar 2008
Posts: 109

PostPosted: Thu Apr 08, 2010 9:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You should not have shorted the capacitor? why did you not just short the fuse? Shocked
Are you sure you didnt leave the capacitor connection open?
Are you sure it was fried? capacitors can become leaky, that doesnt mean they are broken though.
Double check the fuse is definately jumped properly, and put the capacitor back if you can.
If not i think that capacitor is a 47 uF, 10v surface mount electrolytic capacitor. I still cant beleive you were scared to open it and then ripped more out more than you should have. Very Happy Cant guarantee it will work now you have done that to be honest.

A picture would help.
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