Korg Forums

[virtuocity]

My time off over Christmas will see me attempt to build a realistic looking upright piano shell in which to fit my Korg SV-1.

I play in a piano-driven pop/indie/rock band and love my SV-1. However, it doesn't have a big presence on stage like an acoustic piano does.

It's too expensive to hire acoustic pianos for gigs and I will be building this merely as a nice looking stand.

I have seen companies online doing these but they cost a FORTUNE!

So- any idea where the heck I'd start?

[billbaker]

POST-1

From a purely sturdiness/cosmetic standpoint I'd look at fining a used spinet you could gut - it isn't as hard as it sounds tho' it is fairly tedious.

Every component can be removed using basic tools. Remove the action (couple of thumbscrews usually). You'd cut the strings with a bolt cutter (they're ay harder than guitar strings) or, if you have a tuning hammer, just un-string it. Then use a wrench to pull the bolts holding the sound plate (90% of the weight) and find a friend to help you wrestle it out. The keys lift out and the pins in the key bed can be pulled with vice grips.

After you take off everything that can be removed you'd basically have a wood shell/stand.

Add on industrial casters - the thing is still gonna be big and awkward. But that big shell can hide other gear - you could get rack rail for a built-in rack of amps or outboard synths. Monitors? Small 'hot spot' style monitors could go inside the lid - grilled cut outs for sound, maybe? For small venues a self powered speaker like a JBL Eon firing through a port in the soundboard would give the illusion of source directionality - two would give you stereo spread and an even better sound.

Cost (aside from your labor) ~$free-300 for a "please-get-this-out-of-my-basement" special. [for comparison Ultimate support wants $250 for a two tier apex stand]

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Two problems with this solution - You probably can't move it yourself - and whatever you gain cosmetically you'll degrade every time you move it with dings dents and scratches.
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billbaker

Triton Extreme 88, Triton Classic Pro, Trinity V3 Pro
+E-mu, Alesis, Korg, Kawai, Yamaha, Line-6, TC Elecronics, Behringer, Lexicon...

[billbaker]

POST 2 - the Origami Piano

When they were first starting out KISS used big amp-shaped-boxes with Marshall stenciled across the front to give the illusion of that wall-of-amps they'd seen in acts they wanted to be las big as [pardon the dangling participle].

That tradition goes back a long way - big bands used folding stand made of little more than cardboard and glitter, but which gave the look of a massive, solid, clean unified look... but the real lesson is that the whole thing folded up into a neat package that fit on the bus.

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You want to consider how much "gravity" you need and from what direction you want to mask from. You may be able to build a "piano-shaped-box" for 3 sides plus top for not much at all... it would just surround your regular stand. You want to pay special attention to hinge point where you're going to be folding repeatedly - also you want whatever material you use to be structurally solid enough not to shake or wobble if nudged.

This approach would let you have more control over design elements like overall height, color, stage footprint, etc. Your "gravity" box could be covered with graffiti, a band logo, flames, or tribal tattoos -- or even (gasp!) wood - Ikea's been pulling off that illusion forever.

Then - ideally - the hole thing could be folded flat and stowed in the truck, and left there for shows where instrumental gravitas is not as important.

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Then you need to think about this... is the most successful illusion the one where the audience looks at your gear and says "that's a cool box for the synth" or the one where they say "I wonder how he gets all those sounds out of that upright -- ir must be midi'd somehow."

BB
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billbaker

Triton Extreme 88, Triton Classic Pro, Trinity V3 Pro
+E-mu, Alesis, Korg, Kawai, Yamaha, Line-6, TC Elecronics, Behringer, Lexicon...

[virtuocity]

Don't know how to post images on replies, sorry, but Imogen Heap has a custom piano set-up which you MUST check out:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/24833917@N08/4149133444/

If anyone can post this or a similar photo, that would really help thanks!

I have decided to build an upright version of this.

Going to buy a simple table top & legs (circa £25 / $40), buy some perspex and carve it for the 'sides' and then a big perspex back.

I am going to put some lights behind the perspex which should look nice on stage, and simply sit my SV-1 on the table.

I welcome any thoughts on this idea and if someone could let me know how to post pics, I will keep everyone up-to-date with the construction. Should only take a couple of days I reckon.

Wish me luck![/img]

[virtuocity]

Damn.

I have just viewed a couple of Youtube vids showing people ripping apart their upright pianos.

Of course, they make it look easy.

There are tonnes of local advertisements asking for people to take their old upright pianos off their hands for free. I was thinking, I could get one, rip it to shreds and sit the SV-1 in the keybed.

The only issues are:

1. After taking out keys, brass plates, strings etc, will the upright piano wooden shell be very heavy? Don't mind a bit of heavy lifting, but nothing as heavy as the original upright.

2. The SV-1 is quite deep. Anyone have any idea if this would even FIT?!

Look forward to your replies!

[billbaker]

They are easy to gut - but a lot harder to put back together. With everything out I'd guess gutted weight to be between 75 and 150 pounds [30-70 Kg] depending on size (spinnet vs. full upright). Most of the weight of a piano is in the harp and strings - next would be the action and pin block.

The pins can be backed out using a biggish drill and a square socket - they are very finely threaded and friction fitted so a big drill with good torque is the tool for this job - only saves about 15 pounds, but everything helps.

Depth of the key-bed (where the SV will sit) is something on the order of 12 to 16+ inches to the BACK of the piano -- but only about 5 inches before the key cover comes into play. The end blocks (L+R) might get in the way - you'll need to be a bit creative to get the key cover right if you decide to keep it.

Vertical depth is fairly short - only 1 1/2 to 2 inches since the front board is designed to touch the tops of the key just in front of the fulcrum of the key.. If you keep the key cover you'll need to apply some cabinetry skills (or hire 'em) to make sure everything is as low or high as you need.

BB
_________________
billbaker

Triton Extreme 88, Triton Classic Pro, Trinity V3 Pro
+E-mu, Alesis, Korg, Kawai, Yamaha, Line-6, TC Elecronics, Behringer, Lexicon...

[virtuocity]

Thanks Bill.

To be honest I'm not bothered about keeping the key cover. This project is all about creating an elaborate piece of furniture foor on stage use.

My main fears are:

a) Not having the right tools for the job (more specifically, taking off the metal plate, keys and strings)
b) Personal Injury. I've read horror stories about snapping strings. I trust that I could loosen them to a point where they are very loose and cut them, whilst wearing gloves, protective mask etc to limit danger?

Once I finally get it stripped and the SV-1 finished, the next task will be to do a paint job.

Torn between going for a gloss piano-black finish orr something radical like bright orange!

Paint recommendations welcome!

[Tourhouse]

Did you build this upright shell if so I may be interested in hiring or buying.
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