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How do you sync the Volcas?
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megamarkd
Senior Member


Joined: 15 Aug 2017
Posts: 274
Location: Australia

PostPosted: Mon Nov 20, 2017 2:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm not too up on electronic, but I'd hazard a guess that splitting the sync signal without some sort of make-up gain will create a signal with a half/third/quarter/etc the amplitude. I do it with CV and there is very much a difference in the voltage once split. In terms of audio, this means a lower volume, basically like getting a headphones-splitter. Again, there are specific devices made to split sync signals without reducing the amplitude, a lot of them are converters also. In theory you could use a powered audio splitter of some description to do the job, it's just a little messy as you will need to know the voltage coming out of the splitter, which will be determined by the output level and whatever is controlling that (main out level slider?).
All this analogue sync world is covered comprehensively in the modular world, with there being many splitters and combiners available, just you need a modular rack to put them in.
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Stuff I'm using: Korg MS-20, M1, KP3+, SDD1000, Monotron Delay, Volca Beats, Volca Kick, Vermona Kick Lancet, Akai ME80P, Rhythm Wolf, Waldorf Microwave XTk, Pulse, Pulse2, miniworks 4Pole, Blofeld, Streichfett, Yamaha QY700, MAM ADX1, Novation Zero SLmkII, Remote 25, XStation, Circuit, Teenage Engineering PO-24 Office, Behringer MX3242, PX-2000 (x2), Ultragain ADA8200, Fostex VM-200, Zoom R16, R24, iConnectivity MIO4, DSI Evolver, Tetra, Roland MV-8000, dbx 166xl (x2), Phonic PCL-3200, Arturia Beatstep Pro, Keystep, MiniBrute, Synthrotek Nandamonium, Squarp Pyramid, Kurzweil Mangler, Wave Ideas Bitstream 3x, Boss DD7, Bastl Micro Granny 2, Mutable Instruments Shrthi, Nanoloop 1&2
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LM



Joined: 09 Oct 2017
Posts: 38

PostPosted: Mon Nov 20, 2017 2:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Splitting a sync signal is not as much of an issue as splitting a CV signal, since it's mostly an on/off deal (pulses) and slight voltage drops are not as critical as it would be when controlling the frequency of an oscillator with CV, for example.

Same thing applies to MIDI: one can usually get away with passively splitting a single MIDI Out signal between two or three MIDI inputs without causing any issues, as all they are doing is lighting up a low-current LED inside the opto-coupler circuitry of each MIDI In. It's not the official way of doing it, of course, but it works most of the time (cheap MIDI Thru).
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Deeneendo



Joined: 19 Mar 2018
Posts: 1
Location: Luxembourg

PostPosted: Mon Mar 19, 2018 10:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

there is actually a neat trick to start all the volcas at the same time using only a jack lead.

in short, the master volca sync out is connected to sync in of the slave volcas. then, an "orphan" jack is connected to its sync in, meaning it is not connected to anything else. Press play on masters and slaves, then remove the jack: hey presto, all volcas start at the same time. Insert jack into master sync in again and they all stop.

this video explains it:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-K4CZRKpEMY
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radwarrior94



Joined: 10 Jun 2018
Posts: 2

PostPosted: Sun Jun 10, 2018 9:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey not to rehash the old subject, but I'm experiencing the sync issue. Using the cable provided with my sample, syncing out into the v. keys sync-in, starting them exactly together or bar after, the keys just seem to jump ahead and don't respond to the sample as master clock. Is it the batteries? I only have one power cable for the keys. Power for sample will be here soon. I'm only using sync cables that came with both volcas. Thought it was a user error 404, but it seems to be a technical issue... Maybe! Any help appreciated! Thanks!
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megamarkd
Senior Member


Joined: 15 Aug 2017
Posts: 274
Location: Australia

PostPosted: Mon Jun 11, 2018 10:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

radwarrior94 wrote:
Hey not to rehash the old subject, but I'm experiencing the sync issue. Using the cable provided with my sample, syncing out into the v. keys sync-in, starting them exactly together or bar after, the keys just seem to jump ahead and don't respond to the sample as master clock. Is it the batteries? I only have one power cable for the keys. Power for sample will be here soon. I'm only using sync cables that came with both volcas. Thought it was a user error 404, but it seems to be a technical issue... Maybe! Any help appreciated! Thanks!


Check your sync mode in the global setting (Press and hold function button while powering on, check the manual for what button corresponds to the sync setting, I can't remember right now). Check (replace) your batteries. Swap over so that you run the Sample on mains power and the Keys on battery. Try a different lead (although it's the "official" lead that came with the machine, it's still able to break inside it's insulation).

LM wrote:
Splitting a sync signal is not as much of an issue as splitting a CV signal, since it's mostly an on/off deal (pulses) and slight voltage drops are not as critical as it would be when controlling the frequency of an oscillator with CV, for example.

Same thing applies to MIDI: one can usually get away with passively splitting a single MIDI Out signal between two or three MIDI inputs without causing any issues, as all they are doing is lighting up a low-current LED inside the opto-coupler circuitry of each MIDI In. It's not the official way of doing it, of course, but it works most of the time (cheap MIDI Thru).


Ah yes, you are correct, shouldn't mess up trigger/gate/clock pulses splitting them a couple of times.
Using a headphones splitter to make a MIDI thru 'box' ('star' if you use one of the Belkin headphone splitters like in the Sonic State video) only really works with one split. Trying to run a third reduces the current too much and ends up sending garbage to all output (something not shown or even mentioned in the Sonic State video demoing how to us a Belkin headphones splitter as a MIDI THRU cable). All the 'passive' THRU boxes commercially available use MIDI power to provide the make-up current required (and then don't work all the time either). I still run my Phil Rees V3, but I have been told I have way too much gear on many an occasion.
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Stuff I'm using: Korg MS-20, M1, KP3+, SDD1000, Monotron Delay, Volca Beats, Volca Kick, Vermona Kick Lancet, Akai ME80P, Rhythm Wolf, Waldorf Microwave XTk, Pulse, Pulse2, miniworks 4Pole, Blofeld, Streichfett, Yamaha QY700, MAM ADX1, Novation Zero SLmkII, Remote 25, XStation, Circuit, Teenage Engineering PO-24 Office, Behringer MX3242, PX-2000 (x2), Ultragain ADA8200, Fostex VM-200, Zoom R16, R24, iConnectivity MIO4, DSI Evolver, Tetra, Roland MV-8000, dbx 166xl (x2), Phonic PCL-3200, Arturia Beatstep Pro, Keystep, MiniBrute, Synthrotek Nandamonium, Squarp Pyramid, Kurzweil Mangler, Wave Ideas Bitstream 3x, Boss DD7, Bastl Micro Granny 2, Mutable Instruments Shrthi, Nanoloop 1&2
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radwarrior94



Joined: 10 Jun 2018
Posts: 2

PostPosted: Wed Jun 13, 2018 12:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

[quote="megamarkd"]
Check your sync mode in the global setting (Press and hold function button while powering on, check the manual for what button corresponds to the sync setting, I can't remember right now). Check (replace) your batteries. Swap over so that you run the Sample on mains power and the Keys on battery. Try a different lead (although it's the "official" lead that came with the machine, it's still able to break inside it's insulation).

Hey thanks Megakid! Sync out is now activated and now melodies are all in timing. For anyone reading this with this problem. Power on with function and it's step 3, then press REC button to save.
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