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Help! Trinity Pro broken key replacement

 
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VegasGroove



Joined: 21 Jan 2017
Posts: 14
Location: Seven Hills, NV

PostPosted: Sun Jan 22, 2017 12:18 am    Post subject: Help! Trinity Pro broken key replacement Reply with quote

I'm fortunate enough to have a fully loaded Trinity Pro w/SoloTri, HDR-Tri, DI-Tri and PBS-TRI. Unfortunately a guest broke a key and I'm unsure how to swap out the broken key. No idea which connectors, screws etc must be undone to access. Currently I have the board flipped upside down with the bottom panel removed and that's about it. Time to ask fo help from people who actually know what they'e doing!
I do have the replacement key on hand so any guidance would be helpful. Someone posted a guide years ago but all the photos are expired so I didn't get very far. Thanks in advance guys!
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Trinity Pro w/SOLO-TRI, DI-TRI, PBS-TRI, HDR-TRI; Kurzweil K2500S w/Orch, Contemp, HD, KDFX; M-Audio Venom; Ensoniq VFX-SD; Ensoniq EPS; Korg Kontrol49. Ensoniq FIZMO, 1964 Hammond B-3
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Timo
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Joined: 24 Jan 2002
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Location: Kaoss central, England

PostPosted: Tue Jan 31, 2017 9:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just removed/replaced a key on my Virus Indigo after cleaning the contacts after a key stopped working.

Have yet to do so on my Trinity so can't give concrete advice, but you will need access to the keybed, possibly removing the whole keybed from the chassis. It was easy on my Indigo but I think the Trinity may be considerably more invasive, and the Trinity's keybed action feels a lot more superior so I imagine it uses a wholly different mechanism to hold the keys in place than my Indigo.

Usually I like to get my hands dirty and explore for the sake of exploration, but while my silver beast is still working I'm letting sleeping dogs lie!

Think your best bet may be to look for videos on Youtube showing relevant disassemblies of similar Korg keyboards (Trinity, Triton, et al), and then getting in there with your hands and seeing if there are any commonalities.

I did see this one, but looks like it is for a hammer action (88-key)? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5sA0Rbo2NVA

Another link I found from elsewhere, specifically for Trinity: http://www.fixya.com/support/t1937680-broken_key_keyboard_korg_trinity

I'll post the contents here in case the link ever expires.

Quote:
A broken key on my keyboard Korg Trinity

Theres a C# key that is broken inside my Korg Trinity Keyboard, which makes the surrounding C & D keys go down when you press the C# key.. very annoying ! .. i´ve tried to open the keyboard, but it seems pretty complex to get into where the keys are attached.. have anyone tried to get into a Korg trinity ( the 1996 model ) ?

hope there is a korg expert out there : )

Cheers
Lars*, Denmark

Quote:
Joe*

Contributor
3 Answers

I just fixed this exact problem today. It took me a while to figure out how to get to the key bed, but it's not impossible. I'll try to retrace my steps and describe them as well as I can:

- Turn the keyboard upside down on a table with the joystick hanging off the table. To make my directions easier to follow, the joystick should be on your left. When I say "front", I mean towards the keys, "back" towards the knobs.
- Have 3 cups for the different types of screws you'll find. A magnet-tipped screwdriver is *essential*, as some of the screws are hard to get to, and you don't want to lose them in there.
- Start by removing the bottom plate.
- Remove the right side panel -- there should be three bigger screws towards the front, and two smaller ones way down towards the back.
- Here's the tricky part... unplug all connectors from the center board. You might want to take some detailed pictures before you do that because there are some empty sockets on the board. It's actually easy to figure out what goes where because most connectors are of different sizes.
- Unplug the two red connectors that go to the left side of the key bed, and the one that goes to the small board on the key bed, but NOT the small white one. That's the aftertouch cable and it doesn't need to be disconnected.
- Unscrew the center board from the horizontal rail in the middle of the case. There should be 4 screws and a cable tie is connected to each one. There are 3 black screws in the back around the digital output slots (there wasn't a digital card on the Trinity I worked on.) -- unscrew those and remove the board VERY carefully not to pull any wires along the way.
- There are two silver plastic grounding slips -- one on the far left, one on the far right. I know you have to remove the left one, I'm not sure about the right one, but remove it just in case.
- Unscrew the long aluminum piece at the very front, the one that is under the keys when the keyboard is right side up.
- Unplug the small connector off the floppy drive. You can leave the ribbon cable connected. The are 4 screws (I think) that hold the floppy drive in place. Unscrew those and remove the drive.
- There should be 1 more screw holding the key bed in place, and it's right by one of the floppy drive screws. Get that one out and pull the key bed upward using the metal piece in the middle -- it may be stuck to the horizontal rail, even though it's unscrewed. Pry it up gently with a screwdriver if you have to. The key bed should come out. If it doesn't, check what might be keeping it in place. Don't ever force anything out of a keyboard.

OK, that's part one. Part two is fairly easy...

- Set the key bed on a table. Remove the long plastic strip at the top.
- To remove a black key, first you have to remove the two surrounding white keys. Grab the bottom part of the key (where you play it) and push towards the top (where there's a square hole). Pay very close attention to how the key is removed, because reinstalling it is the same way, just reversed (obviously). There's a flat spring underneath the key, don't worry if it pops out. It's pretty self-explanatory how to put it back.
- Remove the black key in the same manner. Most likely, the little tab that hooks the key onto the key bed is chipped or broken. In any case, you will need a new key -- unless, of course, it was just the spring that popped out.

Follow the instructions in reverse order to put it all back together. I typed this by memory, so I may have skipped a step or two. Taking this keyboard apart wasn't as easy as I expected, but not as hard as it looked. It just takes patience and being careful.

I hope this helps!

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Posted on Jun 04, 2009

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Joe*
Joe* Sep 03, 2011

I can't remember if the Trinity has a battery inside, but when keyboards reset themselves to the factory default it's usually because of a dead battery. Look for a flat, nickel-sized battery. If you find one, replace it. Whether you need to or not, it's good maintenance.

Quote:
William*
William* Jun 04, 2015

You missed some important points, such as the black screws in the back panel that also hold the main board in. There is also no need to remove the 'right side panel'. As long as the floppy drive is out, good to go. I did a sketch, to remind myself where which screws go. Circles with a dot for the larger brass ones, just a circle for the small brass ones, then a dot for the black ones. I also took photos at every step - which was a great suggestion, but something I learned years ago. Always a good idea. It is not an easy task. Well, it's easier if the one you're replacing hasn't been shattered and you have to glue it back together on top of all this crap.


Sorry that I'm unable to help further, but hopefully this should help you on your way.
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VegasGroove



Joined: 21 Jan 2017
Posts: 14
Location: Seven Hills, NV

PostPosted: Tue Jan 31, 2017 10:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Timo, I came across all of those resources before I posted my question, I too believe in the power of research! Smile

>The video didn't help me because the info I'm looking for is what steps were taken immediately before the video starts - he begins with the keybed already out, & I'm looking for how to take it out. Unfortunately that was the ONLY trinity keybed video I could find. AND I don't even think it was actually a Trinity since the shell isn't silver. Unless it was one of those Japanese black unicorn models lol

>The Fixya thread concerned me because the two posters didn't quite agree with each other & I was kinda looking for something definitive. I'm DEFINITELY a "measure twice, cut once" kinda guy

I guess I will just have at it and hope to goodness I don't break anything. I truly thank you for your efforts to help since I know how buried this info was online.
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Trinity Pro w/SOLO-TRI, DI-TRI, PBS-TRI, HDR-TRI; Kurzweil K2500S w/Orch, Contemp, HD, KDFX; M-Audio Venom; Ensoniq VFX-SD; Ensoniq EPS; Korg Kontrol49. Ensoniq FIZMO, 1964 Hammond B-3
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VegasGroove



Joined: 21 Jan 2017
Posts: 14
Location: Seven Hills, NV

PostPosted: Tue Jan 31, 2017 10:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OMG I hope it is not as complicated as this 01/W disassembly!!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jPiPoTH8MM0
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Trinity Pro w/SOLO-TRI, DI-TRI, PBS-TRI, HDR-TRI; Kurzweil K2500S w/Orch, Contemp, HD, KDFX; M-Audio Venom; Ensoniq VFX-SD; Ensoniq EPS; Korg Kontrol49. Ensoniq FIZMO, 1964 Hammond B-3
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jorgemncardoso
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Joined: 19 Aug 2008
Posts: 225

PostPosted: Wed Mar 15, 2017 6:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi, to anyone that might interest, there is a great photo tutorial on disassembling the Trinity on the links below. It's in Japanese but you can try and translate the pages, but for the pictures alone it's worth it Very Happy

http://www.geocities.jp/netgeeee/tri-test/tri-01.html
http://www.geocities.jp/netgeeee/tri-test/tri-02.html
http://www.geocities.jp/netgeeee/tri-test/tri-03.html
http://www.geocities.jp/netgeeee/tri-test/tri-04.html
http://www.geocities.jp/netgeeee/tri-test/tri-05.html
http://www.geocities.jp/netgeeee/tri-test/tri-06.html
http://www.geocities.jp/netgeeee/tri-test/tri-07.html
http://www.geocities.jp/netgeeee/tri-test/tri-08.html

And actually one of the few sites that teaches how to properly disassemble a Yamaha FS type keybed to work on or change keys.
The key contact board ALWAYS has to come off first and out of the way when you work on the keys. If it's not taken off you risk bending or damaging a contact plate and render the key useless. A lot of sites and tutorials always neglect this and get it wrong. Evil or Very Mad
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