Please help a newb with a solder-free ES1 MkII battery mod

zendar · Post by **zendar** » Sat Mar 07, 2009 2:36 pm

Hi

I have searched all the obvious places, and understand that the original (non-X) Electribes are *fairly* easy to run from a battery pack, as seen in various pics in the Yahoo group as well as youtube videos.

I have an ES1 MkII, and am looking for the simplest solution that will give me at least a couple of hours of reliable battery power, without having to drill, cut, splice or solder anything. Is this possible?

I have seen the excellent PDF that gmeredith put together that explains a neat internal mod - I love that solution but I don't have the skills or tools and would surely fry my unit. So I'd like something plug and play, hopefully fairly lightweight, easy to recharge, that I could maybe also use with my Boss SP-303 (although this is not critical).

What I am concerned about is that if I do manage to get a battery that I *think* is correct, I could still cause damage, as it seems as if you cannot simply get a battery pack with the appropriate power jack? Please help me to understand this - I fear the polarity issue and don't know if there is a failsafe way to get this right before powering up.

I'm in the UK - here are the battery packs I have been considering. I'd appreciate any advice as to how suitable these will be, sorry about all the questions!

1. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/TX-Pack-9-6v-NEW- ... m153.l1262

I hear good things about these batteries and this brand - they appear to be similar to Eneloop/Hybrio, but at lower cost. Are these 'new tech' types suitable for the ES1? I am assuming these 'packs' come pre-wired to provide the necessary power? Do I need an external case to hold these? I could velcro it to the underside, or just gaffa tape it, although if my MKII has enough room inside to house it that would be great

How do I charge this pack? Is there an adapter to convert the connector that comes with this pack to the ES1 input jack? Is that it, or is there something else i would need?

2. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/9-6v-NiMH-4600mAh ... m153.l1262

This looks a lot more robust, with a great deal more power - is it overkill? Would it take forever to charge?

3. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... 0371066509

This looks neat enough, maybe not that light but benefits from being li-ion? Would this work straight off with no mods? I'm guessing not otherwise surely everyone here would be using them? The seller allows returns so i could try it, but I'd rather get some views from you guys before I waste time and possible fry my ES1.

4. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... 0117271679

This is very pricey, but again looks neat - anyone tried one of these?

5. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... 0330868777

Am I completely out of the ballpark with this one? I understand that you can supply the ES1 with 12v from a battery, as they generally proviode lower than the rated spec. Of course I may have this totally wrong...

6. http://www.valuewave.co.jp/moba/eng/ - one of these was shown in that "outdoor" youtube video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OeccfxScPH4). I can't find a UK supplier (or anywhere else for that matter). Love the size and weight, and interested that 8.4v is enough to power the ER1. Wish the author had provoded more explicit info though! Looks like the power cable had to be modified, I wonder what was involved?

Sorry for all the questions, hope someone can shed some light

Cheers
Z

gmeredith · Post by **gmeredith** » Sun Mar 08, 2009 9:48 pm

Hi Z,

The best pack in your circumstances would be an external plug-in battery pack. The guide I wrote for the internal pack requires very small or flat batteries to physically fit inside the ES-1. There is no room for AA batteries; AAA's will fit but only in a specific area shown in my guide. Sony "gumstick" batteries are very flat and are the ideal battery for internal installation - but these are expensive and hard to get.

After I published my guide, 2 people fried their machines because of what I think was the battery charger socket shorting out against the electribe metal backing plate. If you DO go ahead with it, make sure all exposed metal parts and wiring are completely insulated with tape.

If you go for the external pack, don't use lithium batteries. While they are very small and lightweight, they require a special charger = expensive. If you use Ni-MH, you can use the electribe power pack to charge the batteries.

Any of those Ni-MH packs you mentioned would be suitable, if they are 9.6V. The electribes are a bit fragile regarding power, you can blow them with too much voltage and current. Don't go any higher in battery pack voltage than 9.6V. If you bought the Futaba 2100mAH pack (the first one you mentioned) you will get about 9 hours continuous running time out of it.

Regarding the new type of NI-MH batteries becoming available - these are good, but expensive at the moment. The only advantage they offer for you, however, is that they retain their full charge whilst not being used for a much longer time period than the common ones. This means that if you charged your pack up and left it on a shelf for 3 months unused, it would still have about 90% of its power still in it, whereas the normal ones would be probably 50% flat and would need a top-up before using. If you use the normal ones regularly and charge them frequently, the advantage is not really much then.

You will have to cut off the plug on the pack and solder on an electribe power pack sort of plug (these are very common, Radio Shack etc. have them). The best investment for you at this time would be a cheap multimeter for testing your work before plugging anything in. You can pick them up for about $10.

When putting the plug on the battery pack, make sure that when you put the new plug on that the outer ring part of the plug is + and the inner hole is-. You can check this is all correct by using your multimeter before plugging the battery into your electribe.

All you have to do then is plug it in directly to your electribe just as if it was the power pack. To charge the pack, buy 2 sockets to fit the plug you bought for the battery pack and make up a little adapter by connecting these 2 sockets back to back. Now you just plug in the battery pack to one end of the socket adapter and the electribe charger to the other end, and charge away. Again, in all connections, the outer ring of each end of your socket adapter must be connected to the outer ring of the other socket, and the connections are always + ring, - tip hole.

Using the electribe charger, this pack will take about 24 hours to charge. The guide I wrote speaks about chargers for faster rates, so read up on it for info.

If you want to have your electribe playing WHILE its charging, you just need to make up a 3-way adapter - with 2 sockets and 1 male plug, which goes into the electribe socket. The charger and the battery pack go into the other 2 sockets on the adapter.

Cheers, Graham

zendar · Post by **zendar** » Sun Mar 15, 2009 5:12 pm

Hi Graham

Thanks so much for your extensive reply. I have some replies and (sorry) a few more questions!

The best pack in your circumstances would be an external plug-in battery pack. The guide I wrote for the internal pack requires very small or flat batteries to physically fit inside the ES-1. There is no room for AA batteries; AAA's will fit but only in a specific area shown in my guide. Sony "gumstick" batteries are very flat and are the ideal battery for internal installation - but these are expensive and hard to get.

I do like the neatness of the internal mod but am aware I don't have the skills. Shame, as I found a good price for gumsticks http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NH-14WM-Gumstick- ... dZViewItem - I wonder whether it is worth me asking them if they can supply these as ready-soldered 8-packs? My MkII seems to have a fair bit of space at the bottom of the case that could accomodate such a setup. It's just the soldering of the power cable that will hamper me.

After I published my guide, 2 people fried their machines because of what I think was the battery charger socket shorting out against the electribe metal backing plate. If you DO go ahead with it, make sure all exposed metal parts and wiring are completely insulated with tape.

Yeah this is my biggest fear - even if I could cram in the batteries I know I'll fry the unit somehow. Best to keep it outside I think.

If you go for the external pack, don't use lithium batteries. While they are very small and lightweight, they require a special charger = expensive. If you use Ni-MH, you can use the electribe power pack to charge the batteries.

But this Li-ion pack comes with an AC adapter http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... 0371066509 and isn't much more expensive overall (seeing as the regular aa flat packs don't come with a charger and are bit of a homebrew 'bodge job'). But I still don't know if this Li-ion pack would actually power the ES? How would I know? And how would I check it had the right connector cable?

Any of those Ni-MH packs you mentioned would be suitable, if they are 9.6V. The electribes are a bit fragile regarding power, you can blow them with too much voltage and current. Don't go any higher in battery pack voltage than 9.6V. If you bought the Futaba 2100mAH pack (the first one you mentioned) you will get about 9 hours continuous running time out of it.

I like the option of buying 8 regular AA rechargeables that could be repurposed if this project doesn't work out, they are also light and cheap. It's just the soldering - I was looking for a solder-free solution.

Regarding the new type of NI-MH batteries becoming available - these are good, but expensive at the moment. The only advantage they offer for you, however, is that they retain their full charge whilst not being used for a much longer time period than the common ones. This means that if you charged your pack up and left it on a shelf for 3 months unused, it would still have about 90% of its power still in it, whereas the normal ones would be probably 50% flat and would need a top-up before using. If you use the normal ones regularly and charge them frequently, the advantage is not really much then.

Yep, but seeing as they are now the same price, I'm happy to get the new tech benefits for a minor loss in capacity.

You will have to cut off the plug on the pack and solder on an electribe power pack sort of plug (these are very common, Radio Shack etc. have them).

Ah yes, this is where it all goes awry - try as I might I am useless at soldering and don't have the patience to learn it. Anyone in the UK offer soldering services? Can any kind soul on here let me pay them for their time to make up this cable? Failing that I guess I could use one of those screw-block terminals, just to see if it worked? What is the 'official' name of the plug that the ES PSU uses? What size and whats the barrel name?

The best investment for you at this time would be a cheap multimeter for testing your work before plugging anything in. You can pick them up for about $10. When putting the plug on the battery pack, make sure that when you put the new plug on that the outer ring part of the plug is + and the inner hole is-. You can check this is all correct by using your multimeter before plugging the battery into your electribe.

Is a multimeter the only way to check that I have connected the correct cables? Are they not black red for a reason? The AA batt pack has a 'Futaba J" connector (male i presume). Does anyone make a Futaba J to Es-style 9v round barrel plug? I'm assuming the answer is 'no' and that is why soldering keeps cropping up...

All you have to do then is plug it in directly to your electribe just as if it was the power pack. To charge the pack, buy 2 sockets to fit the plug you bought for the battery pack and make up a little adapter by connecting these 2 sockets back to back. Now you just plug in the battery pack to one end of the socket adapter and the electribe charger to the other end, and charge away. Again, in all connections, the outer ring of each end of your socket adapter must be connected to the outer ring of the other socket, and the connections are always + ring, - tip hole.

Yep, again there we are getting a little too complex for me, even though I admire the recycling nature of your solution. To be honest I'm happy to own a separate charger purely for the batt pack, although I am not sure what chargers actually connect to a futaba J?

Using the electribe charger, this pack will take about 24 hours to charge. The guide I wrote speaks about chargers for faster rates, so read up on it for info. If you want to have your electribe playing WHILE its charging, you just need to make up a 3-way adapter - with 2 sockets and 1 male plug, which goes into the electribe socket. The charger and the battery pack go into the other 2 sockets on the adapter.

For the internal mod, that's a great solution. But I'll be happy with a smallish velcro-able external batt pack that has a reliable, securely fastened power cable and can be charged up separately while I use the ES on mains power. I'd also love it if this same solution powered my Sp-303. How would I determine that? I can't imagine I am the only person who wants this solution, summer is coming, everyone needs this

Cheers
Z

gmeredith · Post by **gmeredith** » Sun Mar 15, 2009 10:18 pm

But this Li-ion pack comes with an AC adapter

That 9V Li-ion power pack will power it just fine, and it is a good price, if it includes the charger built in. Go for it, I'd say. Also, it already has a standard lead on it with a couple of different size adapter plugs, one is bound to fit the electribe. Just make sure that when you put the adapter plug on the lead (they just push on - no soldering) that the polarity is correct - it should have a mark on it somewhere to show which way is which).

I could use one of those screw-block terminals, just to see if it worked?

Yes, quite satisfactory.

What is the 'official' name of the plug that the ES PSU uses? What size and whats the barrel name?

http://www1.jaycar.com.au/productView.a ... BCATID=651

Or

http://www1.jaycar.com.au/productView.a ... BCATID=651

I think it's the 2.5mm plug, but get both to be sure. Every electronics store has these - you don't have to get them from that website.

But in the end, go for the Li-ion pack - no soldering necessary!

Does anyone make a Futaba J to Es-style 9v round barrel plug?

Not that I'm aware of.

I'd also love it if this same solution powered my Sp-303. How would I determine that?

Korg use the same power adapter style, polarity and voltage as the Roland SP. You can use the pack directly on both.

Again, I would say the best, least hassle solution in your situation is the li-ion pack, because ther is zero soldering to do.

Cheers, graham

zendar · Post by **zendar** » Sun Mar 15, 2009 10:31 pm

Superb thanks so much! I will go for the li-ion pack on payday and report back here so that anyone else who is interested can benefit