TEX88 has failing tac switches beneath the most commonly used buttons.
START/STOP …. ENTER.... Program - Combo etc.
Where can I get new tactile switches to install on the panel board?
panel tactile switch replacement
Moderators: Sharp, X-Trade, Pepperpotty, karmathanever
panel tactile switch replacement
Kronos 2 88
M3 61 expanded
Triton Extreme 88 & 61
Triton PRO X 88
Trinity V3 61
O1WFD 61
T3 61
M1 61
03R
M3 61 expanded
Triton Extreme 88 & 61
Triton PRO X 88
Trinity V3 61
O1WFD 61
T3 61
M1 61
03R
This is a tough one. I personally opted to use some that I scrapped from an old dishwasher with a broken pump impeller.
It's not an easy job, if you're uncomfortable with soldering. I trust you have opened it up to see what you have? Mine were 4 pin square switches, DPDT momentary push button toggle switches. I am pretty sure that varies from year to year, and where it was manufactured.
Depending on where yours was made, it may use some weird solder that doesn't seem to respond to any of the fluxes, lead free or not, that I have in my shop.
As far as OEM switches... I could not find the source. Korg doesn't publish their schematics either (as if anyone could afford to clone those boards anyway... It would cost more than a Kronos!)
Basically, desolder a switch, and check your stockpile or local electronics store for the closest looking replacement. It's the height you need to worry about most. Too short, and you can add a thin piece of rubber under the physical button so that it engages the switch. Too high, and there's not much you can do. Mine is a little too high, and now the buttons are far too easy to engage.
On some of my other switches that are still good, but weren't working, I just put a thin piece of rubber under the button, and that fixes the problem. I'm sure you notice that you've got to hit the same corner with pressure in order to get it to work. It's just somehow moved a few fractions of an inch downwards in most cases. A simple shim should get you rolling again.
Hope something there helps.
It's not an easy job, if you're uncomfortable with soldering. I trust you have opened it up to see what you have? Mine were 4 pin square switches, DPDT momentary push button toggle switches. I am pretty sure that varies from year to year, and where it was manufactured.
Depending on where yours was made, it may use some weird solder that doesn't seem to respond to any of the fluxes, lead free or not, that I have in my shop.
As far as OEM switches... I could not find the source. Korg doesn't publish their schematics either (as if anyone could afford to clone those boards anyway... It would cost more than a Kronos!)
Basically, desolder a switch, and check your stockpile or local electronics store for the closest looking replacement. It's the height you need to worry about most. Too short, and you can add a thin piece of rubber under the physical button so that it engages the switch. Too high, and there's not much you can do. Mine is a little too high, and now the buttons are far too easy to engage.
On some of my other switches that are still good, but weren't working, I just put a thin piece of rubber under the button, and that fixes the problem. I'm sure you notice that you've got to hit the same corner with pressure in order to get it to work. It's just somehow moved a few fractions of an inch downwards in most cases. A simple shim should get you rolling again.
Hope something there helps.