You mean this picture, right?
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/498 ... 34f4_b.jpg
I don't recall the specifics, but do recall mapping the special purpose wires (PS_OK, 5VSB, etc.) to their designated existing wires on the Kronos and these wire colors may not be the same on the Kronos vs power supply. Not sure if that helps or if the spec sheet for the power supply I used will help:
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/523 ... 6ba6_h.jpg
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/523 ... 204f_h.jpg
Did you do anything different for routing the Kronos' main voltage lines to the power supply?
Replacining Internal Power Supply PCB on Korg Kronos X
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Yeah, that's the picture am talking about. See, am just trying to get my PSU working some day. So, trying to follow up all possible traces of what I may be doing wrong. I thought all the colours are standardised in PSUs, and I still think so. That's why my questioning. OK, but case closed now with regards to the colours.
Modartt Pianoteq, Kronos 2-88 & X73, Kurzweil MicroPiano, Tina Guo Acoustic Cello Legato, Spitfire Albion V Tundra, BBCO Core, Nylon Guitar Ilya Efimov, Xtant Audio Uilleann Pipes - in use
Korg DS-8, Roland D-10, M1Rex, Wavestation, Korg SP-280, JV2080, Wavestate, Kronos LS - all RIP
Korg DS-8, Roland D-10, M1Rex, Wavestation, Korg SP-280, JV2080, Wavestate, Kronos LS - all RIP
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If you get a chance to revisit your setup, it may be a good idea the focus on the “PS_ON” ATX line, specifically looking at the motherboard header pin and connector/PCB, as that is what actually turns on the motherboard . Sounds like this isn’t getting connected correctly and power may not be getting switched on the motherboard because of this.
Also I recall adding a wiring to an existing power line coming out of the PSU, that is, doubling up or splicing in two wires for a single output pin. So I used one of these to split out one pin into two lines:
https://www.moddiy.com/product_images/n ... 2_zoom.jpg
I don't recall which pin, but best I can remember it was a red wire (+5V), but could be wrong. This was needed to supply something on the Kronos.
Also I recall adding a wiring to an existing power line coming out of the PSU, that is, doubling up or splicing in two wires for a single output pin. So I used one of these to split out one pin into two lines:
https://www.moddiy.com/product_images/n ... 2_zoom.jpg
I don't recall which pin, but best I can remember it was a red wire (+5V), but could be wrong. This was needed to supply something on the Kronos.
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Re:
My X73 still running without an error since then. Just to recap, I had to leave the original PSU in it as two different retrofit PSUs didn't work for me.BlackForest wrote: ↑Mon Sep 23, 2024 12:13 pmSo far no further issue with switching off by itself. Keeping in mind, it's not quite 30°C in Germany anymore...BlackForest wrote:....
I'll keep you posted if it happens again, now that this heat paste is a new change. Maybe this is an issue for some of us?
I assume it had to do with
- deteriorating cooling paste between the rectifiers and the PSUs housing, and
- corrosion on the contacts of the wiring harness
Modartt Pianoteq, Kronos 2-88 & X73, Kurzweil MicroPiano, Tina Guo Acoustic Cello Legato, Spitfire Albion V Tundra, BBCO Core, Nylon Guitar Ilya Efimov, Xtant Audio Uilleann Pipes - in use
Korg DS-8, Roland D-10, M1Rex, Wavestation, Korg SP-280, JV2080, Wavestate, Kronos LS - all RIP
Korg DS-8, Roland D-10, M1Rex, Wavestation, Korg SP-280, JV2080, Wavestate, Kronos LS - all RIP