Is the Nautilus ALL metal...?

[G]

Hello everyone.

Is the Nautilus (88 key) ALL metal...?

I mean all the parts that should be...

Some people have said that is is all metal...

Some have said that the top is plastic...

And then some have said that the top is metal also - but the plate around the joystick is plastic...

The 88 Key version of the Nautilus actually weighs more than the 88 key version of the Kronos 3 - so...

Thanks!

[chelsea4023]

Hi G,
I have the Nautilus 88 and absolutely love it. Built like a tank, it has wooden end cheeks. A very solid (assume it is brushed aluminum) top fascia. the underneath is either wooden or thick MDF. The front of the keyboard is also brushed aluminum. The keybed is RH3 which is used on a lot of Korg's digital pianos. I had an SP250 which is also the same RH3 action. This action has not changed for quite a few years, and I can understand why.
What is the point of changing something that works well. You are correct about the joystick, it is plastic but feels really solid. The Nautilus is made in Japan, and the build quality is exceptional.
Chris

[dexman]

To expand on what Chelsea said, the Kronos 3 also has wood end caps. Plastic is the primary material used for the panels, but there is a metal grill that wraps around the back top edge (maybe for ventilation purposes).

I have access to both a Nautilus AT (owned by my church) and a Kronos 3 (personal keyboard). Both are very well made. I like them both.

[G]

To expand on what Chelsea said, the Kronos 3 also has wood end caps. Plastic is the primary material used for the panels, but there is a metal grill that wraps around the back top edge (maybe for ventilation purposes).

I have access to both a Nautilus AT (owned by my church) and a Kronos 3 (personal keyboard). Both are very well made. I like them both.

The Kronos 3 has plastic panels...?!

[dexman]

When I run my hand over the top panel, it feels like some sort of plastic. I'm not keen to taking a knife or sharp object and scratching the surface to verify though. The end caps are wood. There is a metal grill along the back edge of the top panel. It appears to help dissipate heat.

[voip]

It's possible to use a wall stud finder, more specifically the Zircon Studfinder 2 or 3.0, to non-destructively check if the panel is made of metal. Although this device is designed to detect wooden studding behind plasterboard walls, it can also be used to detect conductive materials, such as metal.

For close in metal detection, such as detecting aluminium under a paint layer that may look like plastic, this product has an auto-calibrate feature, use of which is made in the following description of the process. The calibration is done by placing the Studsensor onto a smooth metal surface, something like a metal baking tray, biscuit tin, or laptop lid, and pressing the power button on the side and holding it in. After a few seconds, calibration should be complete. Now, keeping the button pressed in, check that the detection light goes out when the Studsensor is lifted by ~2-3mm from the metal surface. If it does so, you're ready to go. Still holding the button in, scan the Studsensor over the surface of the Nautilus/Kronos, or whatever. If the Studsensor sense light comes on, then it's likely that the case is made of metal, or at least something conductive.

Set up in the way described above, the Studsensor will detect things like your hand, because flesh is conductive, and placing the sensor onto a mirror will show a positive signal, whilst plain glass will not. The internal glass of an oven door may show up as positive, because the heat reflecting coating behaves as a conductor. Similarly for double glazing glass, if it has a heat-reflective coating. Internal wiring behind a plastic case will probably not show up, although a printed circuit board directly behind a plastic case, may give a positive response, depending on how far it is away from the plastic panel, and how much copper is present on the printed circuit board. Plastics generally will not give a positive signal, unless there is something conductive present e.g. some electrical products may have an internal conductive paint layer, usually containing nickel, to give the plastic some of the screening properties of a metal case. Small metal objects, like coins or metal spectacle frames, will not be detected.

I tested the Studfinder against a number of different keyboards. Those with a metal case, such as the Korg M1, showed up as positive, whilst the plastic end cheeks did not. Those with a plastic case, such as the Korg Kontrol 49, showed no response when the sensor was "scanned" over its front panel, even though there is a printed circuit board not far behind the panel.

Other stud finders may also be suitable, but they have not been tested here. The key feature to look for in any other device, is the ability to reduce the detection sensitivity to such an extent, that detection is lost within 2-3mm of the metal surface. The Studfinder 3 listings on eBay are quite inexpensive. I've seen them for around $10. Shipping outside the US will, of course, add to the price.

The other distinctive feature of metal compared to plastic, is its thermal conductivity. If the front panel is made of metal, and the kebyard has been turned off for some time and is in a fairly cool room, then the panel will feel distingctly cold, compared to a plastic surface.

There are other non destructive devices that could be used for testing whether a front panel is metal or not. Examples are inexpensive coating thickness gauges, used for measuring the paint coating on vehicles. You may know someone who has one. An X-ray fluorescence (XRF) detector is another device. Though hugely expensive, compared to the above testing devices, it will tell you what metal(s) are present. Your local geologist, or metal scrap merchant may have one

.

[G]

When I run my hand over the top panel, it feels like some sort of plastic. I'm not keen to taking a knife or sharp object and scratching the surface to verify though. The end caps are wood. There is a metal grill along the back edge of the top panel. It appears to help dissipate heat.

According to the Korg website - the Kronos 3 chassis is made of metal.

"While the hallmark features of KRONOS remain unchanged, its fourth-generation design introduces subtle yet striking updates. The powder-coated metal body offers exceptional durability and a premium tactile feel, while the refined black wood side panels add a sophisticated edge. These enhancements ensure KRONOS not only performs impeccably but also commands attention from any audience."

[dexman]

Thank you, G for locating the information. To me, the touch, the surface of the Kronos 3 feels like plastic. The surface of the Nautilus AT definitely feels like metal.

Then again, I'd rather play those workstations as opposed to rubbing their outer surfaces.

[dexman]

It's possible to use a wall stud finder, more specifically the Zircon Studfinder 2 or 3.0, to non-destructively check if the panel is made of metal. Although this device is designed to detect wooden studding behind plasterboard walls, it can also be used to detect conductive materials, such as metal.

For close in metal detection, such as detecting aluminum under a paint layer that may look like plastic, this product has an auto-calibrate feature, use of which is made in the following description of the process. The calibration is done by placing the Studsensor onto a smooth metal surface, something like a metal baking tray, biscuit tin, or laptop lid, and pressing the power button on the side and holding it in. After a few seconds, calibration should be complete. Now, keeping the button pressed in, check that the detection light goes out when the Studsensor is lifted by ~2-3mm from the metal surface. If it does so, you're ready to go. Still holding the button in, scan the Studsensor over the surface of the Nautilus/Kronos, or whatever. If the Studsensor sense light comes on, then it's likely that the case is made of metal, or at least something conductive.

Set up in the way described above, the Studsensor will detect things like your hand, because flesh is conductive, and placing the sensor onto a mirror will show a positive signal, whilst plain glass will not. The internal glass of an oven door may show up as positive, because the heat reflecting coating behaves as a conductor. Similarly for double glazing glass, if it has a heat-reflective coating. Internal wiring behind a plastic case will probably not show up, although a printed circuit board directly behind a plastic case, may give a positive response, depending on how far it is away from the plastic panel, and how much copper is present on the printed circuit board. Plastics generally will not give a positive signal, unless there is something conductive present e.g. some electrical products may have an internal conductive paint layer, usually containing nickel, to give the plastic some of the screening properties of a metal case. Small metal objects, like coins or metal spectacle frames, will not be detected.

I tested the Studfinder against a number of different keyboards. Those with a metal case, such as the Korg M1, showed up as positive, whilst the plastic end cheeks did not. Those with a plastic case, such as the Korg Kontrol 49, showed no response when the sensor was "scanned" over its front panel, even though there is a printed circuit board not far behind the panel.

Other stud finders may also be suitable, but they have not been tested here. The key feature to look for in any other device, is the ability to reduce the detection sensitivity to such an extent, that detection is lost within 2-3mm of the metal surface. The Studfinder 3 listings on eBay are quite inexpensive. I've seen them for around $10. Shipping outside the US will, of course, add to the price.

The other distinctive feature of metal compared to plastic, is its thermal conductivity. If the front panel is made of metal, and the keyboard has been turned off for some time and is in a fairly cool room, then the panel will feel distinctly cold, compared to a plastic surface.

There are other non destructive devices that could be used for testing whether a front panel is metal or not. Examples are inexpensive coating thickness gauges, used for measuring the paint coating on vehicles. You may know someone who has one. An X-ray fluorescence (XRF) detector is another device. Though hugely expensive, compared to the above testing devices, it will tell you what metal(s) are present. Your local geologist, or metal scrap merchant may have one

.

I never thought to try using a stud finder on a keyboard. My late dad has one buried somewhere in the basement, but I'm 100% sure it is that particular model.

[voip]

I did see a few references in internet search results to the "powder coated metal body" of the Kronos, just not from the Korg website. The original question got me thinking about what could be used, that didn't cost a fortune, to non destructively test for the presence of metal in the front panel construction of a keybaord. Studfinders are relatively common. A studfinder isn't a metal detector as such, nor will a positive response from one necessarily mean that metal is present, but a negative response would almost certainly indicate that a panel is unlikely to be made of metal. Interestingly, although metal front panels on keyboards are generally made from aluminium (or more likely an aluminium alloy), the Korg M50 has a painted steel front panel, determined using a magnet.

I've now gone and bought an inexpensive coating thickness gauge, in order to satisfy my curiousity
.

[dexman]

I learn something new every day.

[voip]

The coating thickness gauge arrived yesterday. It actually works well as an "is my keyboard panel made of metal" tester. It can even tell the difference between aluminium and steel

.

[dexman]

The coating thickness gauge arrived yesterday. It actually works well as an "is my keyboard panel made of metal" tester. It can even tell the difference between aluminium and steel

.

I habitually reach for a magnet when verifying if a surface is aluminum or steel.