Korg Kronos OS Install
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Kronos Keys
KK, thanks for clearing that up. How they're divided was confusing. Is the "fulcrum" the plastic part? And they're the same, split between only black or white?
Re: Kronos Keys
Hi there,linkvsshadowlink wrote:KK, thanks for clearing that up. How they're divided was confusing. Is the "fulcrum" the plastic part? And they're the same, split between only black or white?
Yep, there are only two types of fulcrums throughout the action and they are made of robust plastic. But the thick metal parts used as "hammers" have different weights depending where they are on the keyboard (similar to a real grand piano - bass keys are heavier than high treble ones), so you must get the correct ones. Simply refer to my earlier post but first make sure that C4 = middle C (under the LCD screen). Also, remember they have different lengths if white or black key for each group.
You also need as many caps as missing keys as they are needed between each hammer and key, same with those thin metal blades, they are springs that brings the keys back up. Finally, ideally you would also need some of that special and kind of hard to find key lube for plastic keyboards. Ask whoever you buy your parts from if they can supply some (do not use common lube like vaseline for that purpose). On the worse case if you can't find any, using a toothpick borrow a tiny bit of lube from other keys (there might be a little extra available on the higher octave keys as they are less often used) to transfer on the new cap top surfaces.
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Re: Korg Kronos Keys
You're correct in that every key has the hammer, rubber bumper, metal spring, and the actual key. There's also the plastic strips that the hammers lock into, but since you haven't mentioned those, I'm assuming they're fine. And, you say the rubber contact strips are also ok?linkvsshadowlink wrote:Adam, I appreciate that!
I will look into what it might actually cost to have that delivered and I will let you know. Do you know by chance exactly which parts I need?
I rebuilt a Kronos for a friend, and he'd destroyed even those plastic parts, and snapped hammers. (He's also a drummer…). So I do have a few octaves' worth also.
Been a while since I put the parts in a drawer, but the hammers for sure are weighted differently. That's where the graded action comes from. Heavy on the LH, lighter on the RH (right hand - not the actual keybed!)
I have tomorrow off. Will drop the parts you need in a bag and weigh it if I remember! You're more than welcome to the stuff. Just taking up space at the mo!
I always find it hard to bear $15 for a single key without any supporting bits. Had to do this a few weeks ago restoring a 1999 Triton Pro that had been on a Middle Eastern balcony in the heat for 8 years.
: Nord Stage 2 HA88 : Korg Kronos 61 : Korg Kronos 2 73 : MacBook Pro :