Korg Forums

So I just took delivery of a new, factory-sealed Kronos-61, after about two years of saving and salivating. It's rocking my world, so far -- but I do have one question.

The metal lip under the keybed is a little loose, particularly near the treble end of the board. If you press down on the lip, it shifts.

Everything else about the board seems solid. Is this something I should discuss with my distributor (Korg USA)? Thanks in advance.

If it's really loose, you might discuss it with your distributor as well as with a carfully applied screwdriver to tighten the bottom screws...

Otherwise, if the screws are already / still tightly fastened, this is somewhat normal. I don't like the construction of that particular part of the frame, either, but in fact this is nothing to worry about. It's a bit flexible by design.

Korg could have avoided the irritation this may cause for one or another, but it's not affecting the functionality of the board - it's just a cosmetic issue. In everyday use, I have forgotten about it since long... I'm more concerned about the rattling noise it makes sometimes when I play hard, when the metal lip "dangles" against the part where the ribbon controller is located, at the left end.
But that is something I will adjust some time when I open the box next time...

.Jens wrote:If it's really loose, you might discuss it with your distributor as well as with a carfully applied screwdriver to tighten the bottom screws...

Otherwise, if the screws are already / still tightly fastened, this is somewhat normal. I don't like the construction of that particular part of the frame, either, but in fact this is nothing to worry about. It's a bit flexible by design.

Korg could have avoided the irritation this may cause for one or another, but it's not affecting the functionality of the board - it's just a cosmetic issue. In everyday use, I have forgotten about it since long... I'm more concerned about the rattling noise it makes sometimes when I play hard, when the metal lip "dangles" against the part where the ribbon controller is located, at the left end.
But that is something I will adjust some time when I open the box next time...

Many thanks for the feedback.

I just had to ask because neither my old M3 nor my current Arturia Analog Laboratory exhibit this issue. And in all other respects, the Kronos' keybed gets a solid "A" from me. Great velocity and aftertouch response, just the right amount of resistance, and nicely rounded keys with no flash. I can do palm smears on the Kronos without scraping up my hands -- which is a bit of a revelation after 8 months of the Analog Laboratory as my main board.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/G0LNSaJcbrs" frameborder="0"></iframe>

Agree with Jens - just a cosmetic thing really.

I tightened the screws and it somehow it was still not holding fine. Then I took apart that piece very carefully and placed it back and tightened. It just fits well now and feels tight!

Last year there were many discussion threads in this regard when everyone just got their Kronos.

You may not have to take it apart and fit it again like I did. I had to do that because the screw could never be tightened and there is literally no part to hold the screw on the inside of the frame. It just drills in between the frame - you'll be surprised by this if you open up

Congrats CK on the new K61. Hope you enjoy it as much as I enjoy mine. And good luck with the rail thing. I haven't noticed any play in mine, but I will check next time I sit down at it.

Congratz TS

Btw does anyone here know how to verify SERIAL ON KRONOS?

I MEANS DO THERE HAVE FAKE KRONOS ?
Because i found one shop selling kronos for $500 cheaper than other...

That end block is not mating properly with the front rail. I did this when upgrading my memory and HD. Very easy to fix. Turn it upside down. Loosen the bottom screws. You need to create enough play so the end block can move away from the rail so the lip seen in your picture is UNDER the rail, not on top of it. Then tighten it back up.

Geo

So should the lip on the endcap be visible from the front of the kronos when it's all assembled, or should it be inside/under the rail such that it's not visible.

Miy k61 came from the factory with the rail sitting under the lip and the lip being visible, meaning the rail can be easily pushed down and flexed. It always looked to me like the lip should be under the rail to prevent this happening?

Can anyone please confirm and if possible show pictures of where their endcap adjoins the rail?

Thanks!

I thought I already pointed it out. The lip should not be visible. It belongs inside the rail.

Geo

On my K61, the lip was inside the rail originally, I found it became visible after I installed extra RAM chips, after which I loosened a few screws nearby and secured the rail onto the lips.

geoelectro wrote:I thought I already pointed it out. The lip should not be visible. It belongs inside the rail.

I don't really think so. It was also my first guess, but if you look closer and compare the transistion between the rail and the molded end caps on both sides (e.g. feel the downside with the finger), it seems to be designed the way it comes. If you shift the rail up so that the lip goes under it, the transistion to the end caps is no longer symmetric.

Furthermore, the lip seems to have the purpose to prevent the rail from bending upwards, towards the keys (which could get stuck then), rather from bending downwards.

I agree that if one doesn't like the sloppyness, your "mod" might be a solution, but I disagree that all Kronoses are assembled the wrong way...

This is why I wanted to clarify: every k61 I have seen has been the same as mine came from the factory: with the lip visible. This is why I wanted to get some further input from those who haven't opened their kronos.

Either way I think it's a poor design.

Appreciate all the input and suggestions!

Ouch, you guys are right. I just looked at the thing again and my rail is slightly out of line with the other side.

When I took it apart and was reassembling it, I found the rail to be loose. I didn't think it was loose before. I put the lip from the side under the rail and it is very tight, although apparently slightly out of alignment. I didn't notice the alignment, just the secure feel. I took it apart a second time and had the same problem again even though I was watching for it. Apparently is IS supposed to be visible and as such, wants to be when reassembling it.

In my case I have it tucked under the rail and that mistake/modification made it very secure with the only downside being a slight cosmetic alignment difference.

Sorry, I was sure I messed it up the first time I put it together and by placing the lip under the rail thought I'd fixed my mistake.

You may want to try it yourself but apparently, you shouldn't listen to me!!

Geo

Buy the Kronos 73/88 intead you will have the cutoff note but not this problem !!!!

OK I go out !!!!!

Cheers