Korg Forums

[SeedyLee]

Hi everyone,

I was replacing the front bar on my Kronos 2 73 due to a dent, and when I removed it, a piece of heat shrink fell out. The problem is, I have no idea where it goes! I can see no mention of it in the Kronos 2 Service Manual, and I can’t see where it would possibly go. It wasn’t on a cable.

It came out on the left hand side when removing the front bar.

Anyone know where it’s supposed to go?



Any help gratefully received![/img]
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Current Equipment:
Korg Kronos 2 88, Reface CS, Roland JV-1080, TE OP1, Moog Subsequent 37, Korg ARP Odyssey, Allen & Heath Zed 18, Adam F5, MOTU MIDI Express XT, Lexicon MX200 & MPX1, Yamaha QY700, Yamaha AW16G, Tascam DP008ex, Zoom H6, Organelle, Roland J6 & JU06A

Previous: Triton LE 61/Sampling/64MB/4GB SCSI, MS2000BR, Kronos 1 61, Monotribe, NanoKontrol, NanoKeys, Kaossilator II, Casio HT3000, Roland VP-03, Reface DX, Novation Mininova, MPC One

[voip]

Could it possibly be a barrier for the power switch? A barrier of some sort is shown in the parts list.

.

[SeedyLee]

Hmm, it could be - in which case it wasn’t on properly and was just floating loose in the case! I didn’t remove the power switch (and therefore, how would it come off from around the cables/lugs) but it does look about the right shape and size - and there’s no barrier on their at present I don’t think. It also came off when removing the front bar, but I guess it could have just fallen down there if it was loose.

I will see if I can find some photos of a factory unit.

Thanks son much for the response, though if anyone else has any other thoughts I’m all ears!

As an aside, I upgraded the factory SSD at the same time and found the screws didn’t fit a standard M3 mount SSD, so I need to get some different screws too. Nothings ever simple…
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Current Equipment:
Korg Kronos 2 88, Reface CS, Roland JV-1080, TE OP1, Moog Subsequent 37, Korg ARP Odyssey, Allen & Heath Zed 18, Adam F5, MOTU MIDI Express XT, Lexicon MX200 & MPX1, Yamaha QY700, Yamaha AW16G, Tascam DP008ex, Zoom H6, Organelle, Roland J6 & JU06A

Previous: Triton LE 61/Sampling/64MB/4GB SCSI, MS2000BR, Kronos 1 61, Monotribe, NanoKontrol, NanoKeys, Kaossilator II, Casio HT3000, Roland VP-03, Reface DX, Novation Mininova, MPC One

[KK]

Very likely just a foreign object. I would actually be more concerned about a loose screw travelling inside on the PSU or PCBs, etc.

Did mods on my Kronos with some of them requiring to temporarily transform it into a unrecognizable pile of disparate parts. So I can tell you I have never seen such an object nor I could think of any use for it in a K2 (but yep, found a lost screw at some point in mine too). The K2 power switch is simply connected with naked spades as shown below.

[SeedyLee]

That’s immensely useful, thanks! I won’t be too concerned then.
_________________
Current Equipment:
Korg Kronos 2 88, Reface CS, Roland JV-1080, TE OP1, Moog Subsequent 37, Korg ARP Odyssey, Allen & Heath Zed 18, Adam F5, MOTU MIDI Express XT, Lexicon MX200 & MPX1, Yamaha QY700, Yamaha AW16G, Tascam DP008ex, Zoom H6, Organelle, Roland J6 & JU06A

Previous: Triton LE 61/Sampling/64MB/4GB SCSI, MS2000BR, Kronos 1 61, Monotribe, NanoKontrol, NanoKeys, Kaossilator II, Casio HT3000, Roland VP-03, Reface DX, Novation Mininova, MPC One

[blazerunner]

That looks like mounting screw for a drive
and the rubber looks like wiring shrink wrap. It could honestly go on any cable that needed to have the connector covered. Are you the first owner of the keyboard?
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I make all the mistakes for you so that you can learn what not to do.

[Xenophile]

I have found a few loose screws rattling around in my Kronos2-61. They can easily cause intermittent "a problem has been detected" and possibly do serious board-level damage. The first time was when the board came loose that holds the little pulsing LED that shines through the O in the Korg logo on the back. Since then, one of the little screws that holds the CPU board in has gone missing. I've taken my machine all apart and searched, but I didn't find it.

If you gig with your Kronos, its a good idea to open it up periodically to re-seat the memory sticks and other connectors, and look around for any odds-and-ends that will eventually get shaken loose.