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M50 Freezing problem resolved.
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JerseyMac



Joined: 02 Jan 2015
Posts: 17

PostPosted: Wed Jan 21, 2015 4:35 pm    Post subject: M50 Freezing problem resolved. Reply with quote

I started a new topic because I thought that this info may be useful.

Looks like I fixed freezing problem with my Korg M50 88.
I spoke with Korg's serviceman, he told me that in 90% of cases with M50's freezing problem is caused by wiring harness connectors from center circuit board to right or left panel circuit boards. Wires are often too loose in those little plastic plugs but sometimes are too firmly pressed and cut.
So, I unplugged all plastic plugs (connectors) on left and right PCBs, then I twisted wires making one full circle to make more tension on these connectors and I plugged them back. My M50 didn't freeze since then. Looks like it fixed the problem. Very Happy


Last edited by JerseyMac on Sat Jan 31, 2015 2:42 pm; edited 2 times in total
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michelkeijzers
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 30, 2015 9:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This sounds like a very realistic solution.

A few days ago I saw a display warning about left/right panel.
Now my M50 freezes after about 1 minute after startup.

When I have some time I'm going to try this solution; thanks for sharing!
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JerseyMac



Joined: 02 Jan 2015
Posts: 17

PostPosted: Fri Jan 30, 2015 9:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

michelkeijzers wrote:

A few days ago I saw a display warning about left/right panel.
Now my M50 freezes after about 1 minute after startup.

When I have some time I'm going to try this solution; thanks for sharing!


I didn't have any messages, so it might be something else in your case. But it never hurts to try.
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michelkeijzers
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 31, 2015 12:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've opened my M50 but there are not that many connectors, and the one from the display are not disconnectable. Which connectors exactly did you reconnect (and what do you mean with 'turned around connectors to make more tension on wire harnesses'?
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JerseyMac



Joined: 02 Jan 2015
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 31, 2015 2:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

michelkeijzers wrote:
I've opened my M50 but there are not that many connectors, and the one from the display are not disconnectable. Which connectors exactly did you reconnect (and what do you mean with 'turned around connectors to make more tension on wire harnesses'?


What I did was disconnecting all these white plastic plugs (connectors) on left and right PCB's (printed circuit boards) then I twisted each wire harness making one full circle, then I plugged them back. I didn't touch anything on display. By twisting wires there is more tension on these plugs.
    unplug
    twist
    plug again
Just do it one by one so you don't mix them up. I hope I helped?
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michelkeijzers
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 31, 2015 4:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It seems to work again ... just removed most connectors around the LCD and reconnected them again (including blowing for dust removal).

Thanks for the tip!
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JerseyMac



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PostPosted: Sun Feb 01, 2015 12:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm glad it worked for you too! Very Happy
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GMUL



Joined: 21 Mar 2011
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 17, 2015 10:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mine crapped out again so I'm hoping this works for me. I have 2 m50s. An 88 and a 73. The 73 has this recurring problem. I am thinking I may just swap the PCB s for the 88 to the 73. - the 88 is retired because the keybed is DESTROYED.
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McHale
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Joined: 10 Feb 2009
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 18, 2015 6:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

GMUL wrote:
Mine crapped out again so I'm hoping this works for me. I have 2 m50s. An 88 and a 73. The 73 has this recurring problem. I am thinking I may just swap the PCB s for the 88 to the 73. - the 88 is retired because the keybed is DESTROYED.


If the keybed is destroyed, you should turn that M50-88 into a module.

-Mc
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GMUL



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PostPosted: Sun Mar 08, 2015 3:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

@ mchale

Do you mean take the monstrously heavy keyboard with me and midi it to a controller? This would destroy my soul to load, lift, and have to see my €1600 keyboards that is unplayable. I am going to use it as a donor form my 73 note and try to sell that "Frankenstein " to fund a kronos. I just simply love the kronos.

On a related topic... Has no one else broken the keys on this 88 note keyboard. I seem to be the only one who has experienced this and I am on a lot of forums. The problem is that the little plastic hinges on the top of the keys seem to snap and the little rubber caps on the weighted mechanism also perish. I must have circa 20 keys gone on my 88. It's so frustrating. I am wondering did leaving the keyboard in the band wagon over freezing cold winters weaken the plastic ? We don't usually have very cold winters in Ireland but about 6 years ago temperatures got down to about -15 and it seems to have all started then. Anyways I digress.... I have both my 88 and 73 together since the 73 started to fail AGAIN ( got capicators replace about a year ago) so tomorrow I am changing the pcbs
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charlestech



Joined: 18 Apr 2015
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 18, 2015 3:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My M50 61 freezes after startup. All locked.
I'm desperate and sad because I used it rarely.
Technical assistance is almost 1 thousand miles from my residence.
If I open it to disconnect and reconnect all the cables again, will fix the problem?

Is it easy to open it? Can I do it?

Help me, please.
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michelkeijzers
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 18, 2015 12:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

charlestech wrote:
My M50 61 freezes after startup. All locked.
I'm desperate and sad because I used it rarely.
Technical assistance is almost 1 thousand miles from my residence.
If I open it to disconnect and reconnect all the cables again, will fix the problem?

Is it easy to open it? Can I do it?

Help me, please.


Mostly this works, especially the cables from/to the display.

It is fairly easy to open, just a lot of screws. Remember which are where. Be careful about the cables of course.

And if you can do it, depends if you trust yourself doing this.
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alfredokiwi
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 22, 2015 7:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

GMUL wrote:
Mine crapped out again so I'm hoping this works for me. I have 2 m50s. An 88 and a 73. The 73 has this recurring problem. I am thinking I may just swap the PCB s for the 88 to the 73. - the 88 is retired because the keybed is DESTROYED.


But supposedly the M50 88 keys use a Fatar hammer action keybed, is that correct? Or use the same keybed as the Krome or Sp-170? I´m lost...
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GMUL



Joined: 21 Mar 2011
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PostPosted: Sun May 03, 2015 5:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

alfredokiwi wrote:
GMUL wrote:
Mine crapped out again so I'm hoping this works for me. I have 2 m50s. An 88 and a 73. The 73 has this recurring problem. I am thinking I may just swap the PCB s for the 88 to the 73. - the 88 is retired because the keybed is DESTROYED.


But supposedly the M50 88 keys use a Fatar hammer action keybed, is that correct? Or use the same keybed as the Krome or Sp-170? I´m lost...


Why are you lost??
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alfredokiwi
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PostPosted: Mon May 04, 2015 2:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

GMUL wrote:
alfredokiwi wrote:
GMUL wrote:
Mine crapped out again so I'm hoping this works for me. I have 2 m50s. An 88 and a 73. The 73 has this recurring problem. I am thinking I may just swap the PCB s for the 88 to the 73. - the 88 is retired because the keybed is DESTROYED.


But supposedly the M50 88 keys use a Fatar hammer action keybed, is that correct? Or use the same keybed as the Krome or Sp-170? I´m lost...


Why are you lost??


I´m no more lost, I find the answer. It use the last RH3 keybed here is a users video showing the SP250 with same RH3 keybed issues. Previous 88 keys Korg TR, OASYS, Triton and other top brands use the Italian FATAR keybeds from the 90s which seems to be stronger, but of course all this depends on users experiencing.


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