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Hi guys,

The Kronos X 88 is using an RH3, right? Well, i want its colors reversed. Is it as simple as to replace it with this: http://www.buymusicstudio.com/products/ ... Piano.html?

The RH3 is the same keybed used in the KRONOS, so it ought to work...you could probably get a SV188 and swap the keybeds, then sell the SV188, and it wouldn't end up costing you very much...if they offered the KRONOS with that reverse color keyboard, and a rosewood finish, I might have to buy another one...

df

buschmann wrote:Hi guys,

The Kronos X 88 is using an RH3, right? Well, i want its colors reversed. Is it as simple as to replace it with this: http://www.buymusicstudio.com/products/ ... Piano.html?

sounds like a question for your Korg service center

Almost, but not quite

Each keybed needs to be individually calibrated for the unit it is installed in, due to differences in the Analogue Digital Converters and manufacturing tolerances. There has been some discussion on exactly how this calibration is performed, since it's not in the service menu as far as I'm aware.

Unless I've missed something, the calibration information is not available.......users are not allowed to do so,unfortunately.(I wish I knew how to,though.... ).

I don't know about the RH3, but a substitute unweighted keybed (from an M3-73) works without recalibration when connected to the KRONOS 61 keyboard interface...does anybody have any real information about keyboard calibration?

df

dfahrner wrote:I don't know about the RH3, but a substitute unweighted keybed (from an M3-73) works without recalibration when connected to the KRONOS 61 keyboard interface...does anybody have any real information about keyboard calibration?

df

Explain?

Hi guys, my post will probably not help very much but i'm just curious...

If the keybeds are the same between the two kbds (meaning the actual KEYS are the same and interchangeable between the two), why would you want to try to exchange keybeds instead of key-by-key exchange on each own keybeds...? Just a thought...
Yes it's a lot more work, but so what...?
Why do you need to bother with calibrations if the one part that's suppose to be the same (only in reverse colour), the plastic key needs no calibration, only the weights on the hammer pert of the keybed.

And anyway, the keybeds themselves are probably not exchangeable between the two keyboards, the keys and system might be the same but the supports of the keybeds are probably different as the case frames of the two keyboards are also different, so the attach screws are probably on different places.

For example: on my keyboards that have the Yamaha FS type keybeds, the system is the same but the keybed (frame) in not inter-exchangeable between, say, a T3 and a Trinity. But i've changed keys between those two synths, no problem.

Even another idea: Why not buy a complete set of 88 keys in reverse colour (from the SV) and swap them on the Kronos, no need to buy and sell an SV, no money lost and you can even make some money selling the old keys from the Kronos

This seems feasible! Great idea! But where to buy reverse keys?

www.syntaur.com sells keys, i don't know if they can also get the reverse ones, send them an e-mail. But from experience is always harder to get parts from korg for private users then from Yamaha. From Yamaha you can order whatever part you need (being a private user and not a service center) with no questions asked

UPDATE:

From Syntaur: We can special order these keys from Korg, but they would have to come from Japan, so it would be weeks before we get them. The keys are $10.95 per white key, and $9.95 for the black keys, and while we could offer a 25% discount on these prices, it would still be rather expensive. Let me know if you would like to go ahead with this, and we can send you a PayPal invoice and get them ordered.

Well, can anybody tell me how to replace keys on the Kronos X?

jorgemncardoso wrote:Hi guys, my post will probably not help very much but i'm just curious...


And anyway, the keybeds themselves are probably not exchangeable between the two keyboards, the keys and system might be the same but the supports of the keybeds are probably different as the case frames of the two keyboards are also different, so the attach screws are probably on different places.

this is what I observe.The Kronos chassis is much different than the SV188.

Thus, I can't see where you can simply rip out the SV188 keybed and plop that into the Kronos. And it would be very expensive experiment.

Since the idea is essentially for a cosmetic reason, my view is that the color contrast would not look good.

Yep, any way you look at it, it's a big, expensive project in time and money spent...the problem is that there are 88 individual assemblies to deal with, $8 and 5 minutes a key times 88...I'd be surprised if you couldn't swap the KRONOS 88 and SV188 keybeds as a unit, but ???...it's not that hard to remove RH3 keys, but the keys are not just a top cover for the key assembly, but are an integral part of the mechanism - if recalibration is required for a new keybed (more ???) you might have to recalibrate anyway if you only swap keys...your best bet would be to get an SV188 and start taking things apart, and see what needs to be done...assuming that you're careful, and know how to do this kind of mechanical work, when you're finished you'd have a functional SV188 that you could sell and get (most of) your money back...

The bottom line is that you've REALLY got to want to have a reverse-key KRONOS...

df

dfahrner wrote:Yep, any way you look at it, it's a big, expensive project in time and money spent...the problem is that there are 88 individual assemblies to deal with, $8 and 5 minutes a key times 88...I'd be surprised if you couldn't swap the KRONOS 88 and SV188 keybeds as a unit, but ???...it's not that hard to remove RH3 keys, but the keys are not just a top cover for the key assembly, but are an integral part of the mechanism - if recalibration is required for a new keybed (more ???) you might have to recalibrate anyway if you only swap keys...your best bet would be to get an SV188 and start taking things apart, and see what needs to be done...assuming that you're careful, and know how to do this kind of mechanical work, when you're finished you'd have a functional SV188 that you could sell and get (most of) your money back...

The bottom line is that you've REALLY got to want to have a reverse-key KRONOS...

df

I think there a misconception about this particular keybed here...

First: the keys them self's (plastic part) have nothing to do with the weighted action it self (weights and hammers). The plastic key itself doesn't even contribute in any way to the weighted feel of the keyboard (the keys have no weights glued to them), only the the weighted hammers do. So it's exactly the same task as to replacing a broken key on the Kronos by a new key. In this case you would be replacing all 88 keys by another similar 88 keys (only reverse in colour), so by this line of thought calibration isn't even an issue here, since you won't be touching the weighted part of the assembly.

The keybed it self may be similar to the Kronos since it's a 88 key and the keybed is attached to the bottom wood base of the case. On the 61 and 76 key synths that use the same keybeds system it's another story...
And even if the keybeds where inter-exchangeable, does the SV1 keybed have aftertouch...? The Kronos 88 keybed does. So the best bet here is always to replace KEYS and not KEYBEDS, IMHO.

It's an expensive project just for cosmetic sake IMO but it's down to what the user really wants and are prepared to spend on. For a $8 a key you would spend $704 for the whole thing, witch for me is a LOT for what it is. But it's up tu the user if he chooses to spend that amount for this project.

5 min per key = 7,5 hour or so, plus another 6 hours to disassemble/assemble the whole thing, or more. But that to me is irrelevant, if you really want to do something i don't care if it takes 2 hour or 2 days, it's just work... It costs nothing, since you are doing it yourself.

I exchanged all the 61 keys from my Trinity to my T3 because i don't use the Trinity and the keys on the T3 where in worse shape. Took the 2 synths apart, it took me a day and a half to do it, but so what... It's done, that's all that matters, the rest is just time and work, doesn't bother me.

Both Kronos and SV1 88 keys are the same, check it here: http://www.syntaur.com/images/K54U-Lg.jpg

It's only up to you if you want to spend that amount of money and time on this project and if it's that important to you or not. But yes, it can be done, providing one can freely get (buy) SV1 reverse colour keys from Korg or other company selling Korg parts.

Oh and regarding: "but the keys are not just a top cover for the key assembly, but are an integral part of the mechanism"
Yes the plastic part of the key IS just a top cover for the key assembly. The weighted part of the assembly is not attached to the key, it that was so it would be a nightmare to replace just a key when needed. All you need is the service manual to see how to remove and put back a key

jorgemncardoso wrote:First: the keys them self's (plastic part) have nothing to do with the weighted action it self (weights and hammers). The plastic key itself doesn't even contribute in any way to the weighted feel of the keyboard (the keys have no weights glued to them), only the the weighted hammers do. So it's exactly the same task as to replacing a broken key on the Kronos by a new key. In this case you would be replacing all 88 keys by another similar 88 keys (only reverse in colour), so by this line of thought calibration isn't even an issue here, since you won't be touching the weighted part of the assembly...Oh and regarding: "but the keys are not just a top cover for the key assembly, but are an integral part of the mechanism"
Yes the plastic part of the key IS just a top cover for the key assembly. The weighted part of the assembly is not attached to the key, it that was so it would be a nightmare to replace just a key when needed. All you need is the service manual to see how to remove and put back a key

I've taken an RH3 keybed apart, and if you swap keys, you will be touching and disassembling the weighted parts of the assembly, but it's no big deal...yes, the plastic key itself has no weight in it, the weighted hammer is a separate part; but the pivot for the key and the area that pushes on the hammer are part of the plastic key...that's why I said that the key is part of the mechanism, and could affect calibration (if calibration is even necessary - again, we don't have any real data about this, only opinions, and we all know what opinions are like)...

It's hardly a "nightmare" to replace a key, but there are so many of them...at this point, let's leave it up to buschmann if he wants to go on with this...