Valve Force blue LED failing... problem?
Moderators: Sharp, X-Trade, Pepperpotty, karmathanever
Valve Force blue LED failing... problem?
The blue backlight for the tube on my EX61 has started failing recently. It flickers out after the keyboard has been on for just a few minutes. Also, if I try to turn the tube off and back on, then it usually won't re-light. Only if I power the keyboard off and on again, then it will usually light up. The tube itself works fine. Has anyone else had this problem?
I understand LEDs take many years to fail. My keyboard is mission-critical for my job in Asia... should I be worried about any possible larger issue with the power supply? I've been using a 220v-to-110v convertor. Thanks!
I understand LEDs take many years to fail. My keyboard is mission-critical for my job in Asia... should I be worried about any possible larger issue with the power supply? I've been using a 220v-to-110v convertor. Thanks!
- vectorsynth
- Posts: 38
- Joined: Sun Mar 02, 2008 12:20 am
- Location: Germany
- vectorsynth
- Posts: 38
- Joined: Sun Mar 02, 2008 12:20 am
- Location: Germany
Thanks for RE RVNoak. The LED is totally dead now, no flickering blue fancy light anymore. Guess it has just reached end of lifetime.
The valve effects however work fine as an insert in my case.
Same with you danhewitt ?
The valve effects however work fine as an insert in my case.
Same with you danhewitt ?
Korg M3-73 EXB Radias, Triton Extreme 76, Korg Karma, Wavestation EX, Trinity, m1
Yes, the valve effect itself works fine, it's just the blue LED that's not working.
From what I've been reading in the forums, the keyboard's power supply is universal. (I haven't confirmed this with Korg yet myself... and I definitely will before I try to plug it into 220v!) Anyway, if that's true, the converter shouldn't be a factor at all.
Right now, the LED works at the beginning of a show when the keyboard is cold but soon fails after the tube heats up. If I later slap that corner of the keyboard with my hand, the light flickers back on just a bit. At this point I'm thinking it's a cracked solder joint.
From what I've been reading in the forums, the keyboard's power supply is universal. (I haven't confirmed this with Korg yet myself... and I definitely will before I try to plug it into 220v!) Anyway, if that's true, the converter shouldn't be a factor at all.
Right now, the LED works at the beginning of a show when the keyboard is cold but soon fails after the tube heats up. If I later slap that corner of the keyboard with my hand, the light flickers back on just a bit. At this point I'm thinking it's a cracked solder joint.
I can't remember where I read this but, it seems the blue light doesn't last that long. I know it can be replaced (though I have no want to enter into the Extremes vital organs anytime soon). Since the valve itself doesn't really produce any real light (a very, very soft glow), Korg added the blue led for aesthetics.
Good thing it's just the light!!
Good thing it's just the light!!
We came.
We saw.
We decided to conquer another day...
We saw.
We decided to conquer another day...
Do use some UPS device or at least device with overpower protection.I plugged in successfully to 220V this weekend!
In my country, 220V power network grid has noticeable oscillations in power output, not very welcomed by keyboards and completely avoidable with usage of UPS devices (Uninterruptible Power Supply, UPS).
-
- Posts: 7
- Joined: Thu Jul 17, 2008 9:12 pm