KORG EMX/ESX KNOB DRIFT
Moderators: Sharp, X-Trade, Pepperpotty, karmathanever
KORG EMX/ESX KNOB DRIFT
first off this really pisses me off.....the level knob on my emx tends to "drift" (usually at a low level ) intermittantly for at least a week or 2 then goes stable. This is my question: HOW DO I FIX IT i bought a parts unit off ebay and tried replacing the controll surface board (only to find that t he one i bought was in worse shape) would replacing the pot for the knob in question fix it???? whats going on with this?
ironic, i posted just previous to this about a similar trouble with my ESX. in my case it is the fx edit 2 knob, which has gotten quite bad in the last month or so (drifting, acutally basically doesn't even work now; just drifts and must be forced to its extreme to increase the value to its max).
hopefully some has an answer, b/c i would like to know what type of pot to buy (in my case it does seem to be the pot due to the drift and lack of response).
let me know if you receive answer, and i am probably going to contact korg about this here soon. although i am sure they will refer me to whatever repair center is closest (i'd like to keep this an "at home" job).
hopefully some has an answer, b/c i would like to know what type of pot to buy (in my case it does seem to be the pot due to the drift and lack of response).
let me know if you receive answer, and i am probably going to contact korg about this here soon. although i am sure they will refer me to whatever repair center is closest (i'd like to keep this an "at home" job).
"What an artist the world is losing in me"
Nero Claudias Caeser
Nero Claudias Caeser
Do you think this problem has to do with the POTS? Someone I KNOW 
purchased a blown unit online for spares. We disconnected the control surface and attached it, ALL of the knobs were freaking out. Maybe it has to do with some circut? I have no idea. Does anyone have any conformation as to which this has to do with the potentiometers or it is something ont he cicut board?
purchased a blown unit online for spares. We disconnected the control surface and attached it, ALL of the knobs were freaking out. Maybe it has to do with some circut? I have no idea. Does anyone have any conformation as to which this has to do with the potentiometers or it is something ont he cicut board? that is a very good question. does anyone know of a place to get a service manual? this would make answering this prob !much! easier. I think one could check the output of the pot, to see if it is covering the range of resistance that it is supposed to (as well as check the connections to the board). If it is not, then it needs replaced...if it is, then it may be something circuit related.
One thing I have wondered about a little is this...
Tubes get hot. Very hot. What do you think this would do to a circuit board so close by over time? Yes, I know the tube is in a separate compartment...but, the electribes are in metal cases, which i love (great move korg), but that also conduct heat quite efficiently. just a though.
One thing I have wondered about a little is this...
Tubes get hot. Very hot. What do you think this would do to a circuit board so close by over time? Yes, I know the tube is in a separate compartment...but, the electribes are in metal cases, which i love (great move korg), but that also conduct heat quite efficiently. just a though.
"What an artist the world is losing in me"
Nero Claudias Caeser
Nero Claudias Caeser
here is an awnser to try http://www.korgforums.com/forum/phpBB2/ ... hp?t=39596 <----much help
awesome...seems we aren't the only ones...
i guess the next step (if you aren't afraid to take your emx apart; i am ready and willing to do so with my esx) is to find the part number for the pots. if i ever find this i will try and post a step by step, at least of my own process...
i guess the next step (if you aren't afraid to take your emx apart; i am ready and willing to do so with my esx) is to find the part number for the pots. if i ever find this i will try and post a step by step, at least of my own process...
"What an artist the world is losing in me"
Nero Claudias Caeser
Nero Claudias Caeser
I know it's an old post BUT i just registered so i can pass the word for people wanting to take apart stuff buying other Elektribe for parts while it doesn't need to be butchered, well at least for the ones having problems with drifting Pots.
I have one friend that dropped me one of these boxes for the same problems, and the only thing i did to correct the issue, was redoing all the Pots leg solders including the two legs that are the GND for the pot and the attachement all in one.
Cleaned flux after soldering, and now all is back to normal, NO MORE DRIFTS.
Drifting could also be because of a bad pot, or even a leaking cap, since there is one on each pots, but concerning the pots these are Bourns branded pots wich are "ok" if you ask me and willing to take the road, but never know, try fresh solder first that would be a good start.
Why solder?, well because all big companys use lead free solder and they tend to turn out beeing cold solder joints with time i guess. And since they are assemnled in China, well lets say that they must go pretty fast in that solder oven, Production VS time VS Money......
What you need to have is a good solder iron, with a fine tip and Kester 63/37 wire, a fine one.
First add a little of your solder (no lead free) we need to make the thing melt a little faster (Lead free as a higher melting point, so mixing them takes the melting point down a little) and that for beeing able to suck out the old solder with a solder pump.
After most of the old solder is out, just add your fresh solder on top, and don't do blobs, just a small amount.
If you never soldered in your life, don't do it, ask one friend of you who knows, and that" really knows" don't need no Hero here.....
Repeat on all the other knobs now that you're at it, and should be good to go.
I cleaned all solder joints with a flux cleaner pen and an antistatic brush (antistatic is important here!), let's say it's for making a nice clean job in there, do as you like.....
Doesn't kill to try that before taking out any pots or buying other for parts.
PS: you surely need to cut the legs of the pots if you need to desolder them, desoldering is not an easy task, and you need to be fast and carefull, because if you heat the pads too much you'll destroy the PCB pad, and that could really be a mes, you're warned.
Hope this will help.
Cheers.
I have one friend that dropped me one of these boxes for the same problems, and the only thing i did to correct the issue, was redoing all the Pots leg solders including the two legs that are the GND for the pot and the attachement all in one.
Cleaned flux after soldering, and now all is back to normal, NO MORE DRIFTS.
Drifting could also be because of a bad pot, or even a leaking cap, since there is one on each pots, but concerning the pots these are Bourns branded pots wich are "ok" if you ask me and willing to take the road, but never know, try fresh solder first that would be a good start.
Why solder?, well because all big companys use lead free solder and they tend to turn out beeing cold solder joints with time i guess. And since they are assemnled in China, well lets say that they must go pretty fast in that solder oven, Production VS time VS Money......
What you need to have is a good solder iron, with a fine tip and Kester 63/37 wire, a fine one.
First add a little of your solder (no lead free) we need to make the thing melt a little faster (Lead free as a higher melting point, so mixing them takes the melting point down a little) and that for beeing able to suck out the old solder with a solder pump.
After most of the old solder is out, just add your fresh solder on top, and don't do blobs, just a small amount.
If you never soldered in your life, don't do it, ask one friend of you who knows, and that" really knows" don't need no Hero here.....
Repeat on all the other knobs now that you're at it, and should be good to go.
I cleaned all solder joints with a flux cleaner pen and an antistatic brush (antistatic is important here!), let's say it's for making a nice clean job in there, do as you like.....
Doesn't kill to try that before taking out any pots or buying other for parts.
PS: you surely need to cut the legs of the pots if you need to desolder them, desoldering is not an easy task, and you need to be fast and carefull, because if you heat the pads too much you'll destroy the PCB pad, and that could really be a mes, you're warned.
Hope this will help.
Cheers.
-
gil videla
- Senior Member
- Posts: 356
- Joined: Wed Sep 17, 2008 6:39 pm
Wanna start a repair service??? I know a guy who's great with solder iron and know all this you speak of, but he's so unavailable. What about a small fee plus shipping???zayance wrote:I know it's an old post BUT i just registered so i can pass the word for people wanting to take apart stuff buying other Elektribe for parts while it doesn't need to be butchered, well at least for the ones having problems with drifting Pots.
I have one friend that dropped me one of these boxes for the same problems, and the only thing i did to correct the issue, was redoing all the Pots leg solders including the two legs that are the GND for the pot and the attachement all in one.
Cleaned flux after soldering, and now all is back to normal, NO MORE DRIFTS.
Drifting could also be because of a bad pot, or even a leaking cap, since there is one on each pots, but concerning the pots these are Bourns branded pots wich are "ok" if you ask me and willing to take the road, but never know, try fresh solder first that would be a good start.
Why solder?, well because all big companys use lead free solder and they tend to turn out beeing cold solder joints with time i guess. And since they are assemnled in China, well lets say that they must go pretty fast in that solder oven, Production VS time VS Money......
What you need to have is a good solder iron, with a fine tip and Kester 63/37 wire, a fine one.
First add a little of your solder (no lead free) we need to make the thing melt a little faster (Lead free as a higher melting point, so mixing them takes the melting point down a little) and that for beeing able to suck out the old solder with a solder pump.
After most of the old solder is out, just add your fresh solder on top, and don't do blobs, just a small amount.
If you never soldered in your life, don't do it, ask one friend of you who knows, and that" really knows" don't need no Hero here.....
Repeat on all the other knobs now that you're at it, and should be good to go.
I cleaned all solder joints with a flux cleaner pen and an antistatic brush (antistatic is important here!), let's say it's for making a nice clean job in there, do as you like.....
Doesn't kill to try that before taking out any pots or buying other for parts.
PS: you surely need to cut the legs of the pots if you need to desolder them, desoldering is not an easy task, and you need to be fast and carefull, because if you heat the pads too much you'll destroy the PCB pad, and that could really be a mes, you're warned.
Hope this will help.
Cheers.
potentiometers
Does anyone know where you can find replacement potentiometers for the electribe.
I have taken mine apart and tested the fx 2 edit pot and its open circuit.
B103 is Marked on the side of the pot and having checked the service manual found it is 10K.
VR11 is marked on the PCB.
Thanks in advance
I have taken mine apart and tested the fx 2 edit pot and its open circuit.
B103 is Marked on the side of the pot and having checked the service manual found it is 10K.
VR11 is marked on the PCB.
Thanks in advance
I wasn't starting a forum based repair service, i'm located in France so i dunno where you are but all that shipping could cost a bit much for that.
And concerning the 10K pot it is a Bourns branded pot, B for Bourns and 103 for 10K respectively, and one of the Korg parts dealer, that can be found on their website, can get you those, name is Antique part supply, and i had a price for about 5.95 dollars for the center detented pot wich is the reference in black below, the other one is the non center detented one, pick the one you need and contact Antique part supply.
Shipping to France is about 10dollars, good move would be to buys some spares
.
EDIT: I've searched for the price and supplier of it because my friend absolutely wants to change the depth pot that has been very wiggly abusing it, but it works tough, so another proof that those pots can take it...
hope this helps.
*362X120000 VR R1111NOA-V1B103FH00-00 10KB KLM-2444/45
*362X120001 VR R1111NOA-V1B103FH01-00 10KB KLM-2444/45
The service manual for who could be interested, there is the procedures, Schematics and Part numbers:
http://lb.midimonster.de/page2/esx/asse ... Manual.pdf
And concerning the 10K pot it is a Bourns branded pot, B for Bourns and 103 for 10K respectively, and one of the Korg parts dealer, that can be found on their website, can get you those, name is Antique part supply, and i had a price for about 5.95 dollars for the center detented pot wich is the reference in black below, the other one is the non center detented one, pick the one you need and contact Antique part supply.
Shipping to France is about 10dollars, good move would be to buys some spares
.EDIT: I've searched for the price and supplier of it because my friend absolutely wants to change the depth pot that has been very wiggly abusing it, but it works tough, so another proof that those pots can take it...
hope this helps.
*362X120000 VR R1111NOA-V1B103FH00-00 10KB KLM-2444/45
*362X120001 VR R1111NOA-V1B103FH01-00 10KB KLM-2444/45
The service manual for who could be interested, there is the procedures, Schematics and Part numbers:
http://lb.midimonster.de/page2/esx/asse ... Manual.pdf