Mount a Leslie Half-moon

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yamaha135
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Mount a Leslie Half-moon

Post by yamaha135 »

Hey guys! Long time no see...

I have a question. I recently acquired a FREE!! Leslie 145. I've been slowly restoring it back to original condition and I'm almost there. I'm doing a few mods to get it to work with a 1/4" input as well as input from my Hammonds. Anyway, I need some advice.

I have my TE88 and my TC61. I'm going to be getting the well-known Leslie half-moon switches for the Leslie. I'd like to mount this to the TE88 if I can. I know it is made of wood, but I wanted to get some opinions first. I don't want to screw this up and/or damage my TE more than just the two screw holes. I've never taken the TE apart, but I have taken my TC apart and I know there are things that I can destroy with a screw :P

Not really a big deal, but I thought to ask here first. I don't have the switch yet, so I'm not sure I'll do it anyway. Thanks guys! :D
-Triton Classic 61
-Triton Extreme 88
-Yamaha Motif6
-Hammond M3
-Leslie 145
billbaker
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Post by billbaker »

Off hand (literally) you might think of mounting them outside the left hand endblock. It would be a blind control... but you don't look at your feet to use the sustain pedal. Just fingertips over the edge an switch by feel.

I'd replace (save) the original end block and use a router to carve out enough space to drop in the switches. Make sure there's enough room in your case to NOT put a resting load on it - you may need extra padding.

You should be able to run wiring to one of the covered "option" bays and pu in a hole that's unobtrusive - for that matter you can replace the original plate with a metal or plastic one and restore the triton to "factory" if you ever want to sell.

Luck...

BB
billbaker

Triton Extreme 88, Triton Classic Pro, Trinity V3 Pro
+E-mu, Alesis, Korg, Kawai, Yamaha, Line-6, TC Elecronics, Behringer, Lexicon...
billbaker
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Post by billbaker »

... but wait there's more.

If you're just talking putting something on top of the triton (or any other keyboard) provided that there's space for what you want to put there - the best kept secret since duct tape is shelf liner.

The stuff you're looking for is the rubberized mesh shelf liner that comes in a small roll - find it at the Dollar Store, Dollar Tree, etc. Don't pay more than $3 a roll - I get mine from Dollar Tree for $1 per 6 ft roll.

Just cut a pad of the appropriate size and slap your gear down on top of it. Thats it. The more weight that is on it the more stable it is. What ever you put this stuff under does not vibrate, skid, slip or slide even if you play hard and your keyboard bounces around.

I use it everywhere - foot pedals don't slide on hardwood floors, top speaker don't vibrate or slide off subs (even if dancer's bump 'em) and even small items (like my hamonica) stay put even on a slanted surface (like my triton).

If you have an older stand a small rolled pad of theis will keep it in place like it was nailed there.

AND NO GLUE OR RESIDUE!

'Nuff sed.

BB
billbaker

Triton Extreme 88, Triton Classic Pro, Trinity V3 Pro
+E-mu, Alesis, Korg, Kawai, Yamaha, Line-6, TC Elecronics, Behringer, Lexicon...
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yamaha135
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Post by yamaha135 »

This is the switch. It can't be mounted on top or inside of it. It would be external and half to be below the keys.

http://www.tonewheelgeneral.com/images/ctcase.jpg

Looking to probably mount it below the joystick, or under C2 octave.
-Triton Classic 61
-Triton Extreme 88
-Yamaha Motif6
-Hammond M3
-Leslie 145
billbaker
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Post by billbaker »

OK - now that I see it, it could still be mounted on the side of the end block - toggle direction front-to-back - with any wiring going through a hole drilled in the block. That would let you use the wood screws shown in your picture.

Looking at it I'd say it could also go on the front - again you want to be sure of case clearances once it's mounted. I would ditch the wood screws in favor of short bolts (#8 or #10) (NOT MACHINE/METAL SCREWS) with clean holes through the metal key front under the joy stick (your preference). Use a lock washer and some sort of thread locking liquid to make sure things don't loosen up.

The bold should be small enough to go through the present holes WITHOUT biting - snug is ok, but you want to be able to still turn the bolt after it is fully in the hole. The assembly should be just long enough to thread + 1/16th inch.

Be aware that anything that sticks out like this switch will, will give extra leverage and torque to damage the board. The key front could bend if you pack it improperly - and that in turn could impact the joystick deck physically or electronically (remember the t-x is a soft nougat-y center under the hard blue shell.

BB
billbaker

Triton Extreme 88, Triton Classic Pro, Trinity V3 Pro
+E-mu, Alesis, Korg, Kawai, Yamaha, Line-6, TC Elecronics, Behringer, Lexicon...
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yamaha135
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Post by yamaha135 »

Thanks bill!

The weight of the switch is almost nothing, so I'm not worried about it hurting anything once mounted.

I'll check my TX tonight and see where I wanna mount it for sure.
-Triton Classic 61
-Triton Extreme 88
-Yamaha Motif6
-Hammond M3
-Leslie 145
billbaker
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Joined: Wed May 31, 2006 11:56 pm
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Post by billbaker »

The issue isn't the weight its that the inch or so the switch sticks out acts as a lever that increases the force over distance (physics 101 is finally useful) where there is normally NO leverage at all by design. If you bolt on a "lever" to a structurally minimal piece there MAY be trouble down the road... don't bolt anything to a foundation made out of jello.

BB
billbaker

Triton Extreme 88, Triton Classic Pro, Trinity V3 Pro
+E-mu, Alesis, Korg, Kawai, Yamaha, Line-6, TC Elecronics, Behringer, Lexicon...
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