Anyone else had a similar issue with Kronos LS? I had a minor "key-sticking" issue, just one key, and it was fixed by swapping a couple of keys around after I opened it up. This fix doesn't seem to be working well for DC.
Same issue as DCMUSIC3 with my Kronos LS, 4 keys have sunk down 1-2 mm (D, G A above middle C and D the upper octave as well).
The return of those keys is "bouncy" too... I have contacted techincal assistance and they told me probably the keyboard has soffered some "too hard pressure" or some hit during tranportation, but this didn't convinced me, I have carried it very carefully, and I'm not an "hard hitter" when playing.
At this point I suspect some design problem as well, unfortunately my Kronos is no longer under warranty period, so If I will bring it to repair, it will cost me something, until it is not recognized by Korg as a design problem...
I was thinking about opening it by myself but I fear to damage it, someone have any idea or have a guide on how to disassemble the LS keybed? Probably is only some "loose" or not in correct position spring, or something similar...
capitanlord wrote:Same issue as DCMUSIC3 with my Kronos LS, 4 keys have sunk down 1-2 mm (D, G A above middle C and D the upper octave as well).
The return of those keys is "bouncy" too... I have contacted techincal assistance and they told me probably the keyboard has soffered some "too hard pressure" or some hit during tranportation, but this didn't convinced me, I have carried it very carefully, and I'm not an "hard hitter" when playing.
...
I think 'tech assistance ' is giving you BS. A key bed on a $3000 Korg keyboard should not ' soften ' and wear down after 1 year.
The key bed is not made of marshmallows and paper. Find someone else to talk to and demand service.
This might be the same issue us Kronos owners were experiencing back in 2011 when we first purchased. Some keys were getting stuck, i sent mine back and they replaced the entire key-bed. When i got it back there were still issues; one or our friendly forum members advised how i could fix the problem.
When Kronos is shipped it has thin strips of cardboard inserted in front of the keybed, that is, between the keybed and the metal frame, there are like 2 or 3 pieces of thin cardboard placed between the front of the white keys and the metal frame.
Underneath the Kronos are 6 x pihilips screws, while your Kronos is on a keyboard stand insert those pieces of cardboard or something similar as per description in above paragraph then slightly unscrew six screws underneath the keyboard located close to the front of the keyboard, these screws hold the keybed in place, do not take them off, just unscrew a little bit, this will allow you to move the keybed back and forth. Push the keybed back towards the felt and you should see a slight space between the front of the white keys and the metal strip, once you see enough space screw the 6 x screws back up.
I'm not sure if this will fix your problem but this is the problem we had with our early Kronos'
Investigate further before you try this though. Your issue might be different.
Wait for others to come in and chime on this before you try it...i could be wrong re your issue....???
Regards
Yamaha C1 Grand Piano.
Korg Oasys 88, Jupiter 80
Kronos 88, V Synth GT
I am a student of classical piano...I am not a classical pianist.
DCMUSIC3 wrote:
Some keys on my Kronos LS have sunk down and are not returning to their correct positions.
......
It would appear Korg has a design problem with this keyboard.
DC.
I am thinking of buying the Kronos LS.
Can you please tell me if your problem was resolved?
Thank you.
Korg Kronos LS & Kronos 61 v1 (both with same upgrades)
SSD1: 500GB (Samsung 850 EVO)
SSD2: 240GB (Crucial BX500)
Internal USB & LAN:
- Wireless Lan (TP-LINK TL-WR802N v4)
- Wireless USB keyboard receiver (Logitech)
capitanlord wrote:Same issue as DCMUSIC3 with my Kronos LS, 4 keys have sunk down 1-2 mm (D, G A above middle C and D the upper octave as well).
The return of those keys is "bouncy" too... I have contacted techincal assistance and they told me probably the keyboard has soffered some "too hard pressure" or some hit during tranportation, but this didn't convinced me, I have carried it very carefully, and I'm not an "hard hitter" when playing.
At this point I suspect some design problem as well, unfortunately my Kronos is no longer under warranty period, so If I will bring it to repair, it will cost me something, until it is not recognized by Korg as a design problem...
I was thinking about opening it by myself but I fear to damage it, someone have any idea or have a guide on how to disassemble the LS keybed? Probably is only some "loose" or not in correct position spring, or something similar...
What did you do with your keybed? Did you fix it?
I am searching the internet for reports of LS models that have the same problem and i can't find anything else. The only reports i found was the two mentioned in this thread. I want to purchase the LS and i don't want to face the same problem after a while. Have you heard something from anyone else?
Thank you.
Korg Kronos LS & Kronos 61 v1 (both with same upgrades)
SSD1: 500GB (Samsung 850 EVO)
SSD2: 240GB (Crucial BX500)
Internal USB & LAN:
- Wireless Lan (TP-LINK TL-WR802N v4)
- Wireless USB keyboard receiver (Logitech)
I am searching the internet for reports of LS models that have the same problem and i can't find anything else. The only reports i found was the two mentioned in this thread. I want to purchase the LS and i don't want to face the same problem after a while. Have you heard something from anyone else?
I doubt it's a design flaw here. Looking at the pic and video, the unit seems to have received a good hit as some paint on the front metal bar is gone in front of the A. The E key is also too high (from pic). A brand new unit shipped with such damage should be returned right away.
Last edited by KK on Mon Sep 23, 2019 2:16 am, edited 1 time in total.
KK wrote: Looking at the pic and video, the unit seems to have received a good hit as some paint on the front metal bar is gone in front of the A. The E key is also too high (from pic). d.
The unit never received a "good hit". It's over 2 years old and gets regular use so there are some small scratches.
The key problems only started to appear after a year of playing. I had to repair 3 just last week. In total I've had around 10 keys go bad in a year.
If you read my first post you will understand why the E key is "high".
And it seems I'm not the only one with this problem.
capitanlord reported the same issue.
DCMUSIC3 wrote:It's over 2 years old and gets regular use so there are some small scratches.
The key problems only started to appear after a year of playing. I had to repair 3 just last week. In total I've had around 10 keys go bad in a year.
You didn't mention it was used, so with more info we can now understand better. So as repairs were already done on yours, what was wrong with the keys ? Lack of solidity, faulty springs, damaged felts, etc. ?
I believe the fault is caused by the leaf spring under the key slipping out of position.
The repair technician simply swapped the bad key with a good key from the upper register.
Not a great solution.