I checked on two or three different programs and combinations, and for some reason after the move my trinity won't output any sound for those keys. Now, it was just after a move, so it could be a physical problem with each key, but that seems pretty unlikely, I magically broke only the C and F# keys on every octave?
I was thinking maybe all of said keys route to a common spot based on the key pressed, for example all C's route to a common C spot, which then determines which octave it is in. If this is so, this could be broken.
Now, this did just occur after a move, so I would lean towards it being physical damage, although perhaps whatever hard drive is used was jostled and I need to reformat. The issue is I don't have a midi cable, but I suppose that would be considerably cheaper than sending it in to get repaired if you guys think the issue is just reformating my poor trinity. Is this a common issue with trinity's? Is there somewhere I could send it to get it repaired perhaps?
I checked a bunch of pages for some list of common issues and saw none, sorry if this question has an easy answer, but thanks for any help.
All of my C and F# keys won't output sound.
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Destin,
Best guess, based on symptoms described, is that one of the ribbon cables from the keyboard to the processor has come loose - there need not be significant damage for this to happen, just loss of contact for a pin. A jolt during a move could be enough to cause this, especially in an older keyboard. Contacts of any sort can oxidize over time creating "dead" spots on a pin or plate contact that won't conduct a signal even tho everything else appears correct.
Reformat would not be my first guess at a solution.
If you're comfortable doing so, you could open up the Trin yourself and check to make sure that all the cables are seated properly (since it is long out of warrantee this won't void anything) and maybe try spraying in a little contact cleaner.
I usually don't tackle anything harder than soldering guitar or speaker cable ends, but if you're OK with, say, building your own PC and replacing memory and installing cards this is about the skill level needed.
Know ahead of time tho, that you're dealing with pins and cables 20 or more years old. Fair warning.
Personally, I'd go the shop route, the age of the keyboard and my non-technical leanings being the deciding factors . It should be a low cost repair -- quick in and out for any repair shop without a 2 week backlog of work.
Finally, be sure to backup your programs and such before taking it in as repairs of any sort may wipe out the memory and there is no recovery if your work is lost -- in fact plan on it. Back-up everything that's non-factory and then get the battery replaced while they've got it open.
BB
Best guess, based on symptoms described, is that one of the ribbon cables from the keyboard to the processor has come loose - there need not be significant damage for this to happen, just loss of contact for a pin. A jolt during a move could be enough to cause this, especially in an older keyboard. Contacts of any sort can oxidize over time creating "dead" spots on a pin or plate contact that won't conduct a signal even tho everything else appears correct.
Reformat would not be my first guess at a solution.
If you're comfortable doing so, you could open up the Trin yourself and check to make sure that all the cables are seated properly (since it is long out of warrantee this won't void anything) and maybe try spraying in a little contact cleaner.
I usually don't tackle anything harder than soldering guitar or speaker cable ends, but if you're OK with, say, building your own PC and replacing memory and installing cards this is about the skill level needed.
Know ahead of time tho, that you're dealing with pins and cables 20 or more years old. Fair warning.
Personally, I'd go the shop route, the age of the keyboard and my non-technical leanings being the deciding factors . It should be a low cost repair -- quick in and out for any repair shop without a 2 week backlog of work.
Finally, be sure to backup your programs and such before taking it in as repairs of any sort may wipe out the memory and there is no recovery if your work is lost -- in fact plan on it. Back-up everything that's non-factory and then get the battery replaced while they've got it open.
BB
billbaker
Triton Extreme 88, Triton Classic Pro, Trinity V3 Pro
+E-mu, Alesis, Korg, Kawai, Yamaha, Line-6, TC Elecronics, Behringer, Lexicon...
Triton Extreme 88, Triton Classic Pro, Trinity V3 Pro
+E-mu, Alesis, Korg, Kawai, Yamaha, Line-6, TC Elecronics, Behringer, Lexicon...