cable kanoodling
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cable kanoodling
What grade of audio cables do you use to connect your Kronos to whatever you connect it to?
I plan to use balanced cables to link my 73 to a Mackie LM-3204. But I'm not sure what grade would be justified for a 4 meter or so run.
The Mackie is connected to a Marantz power amp with balanced Monster cables, which reduce the noise floor remarkably.
Should I go high-end for the Kronos?
I plan to use balanced cables to link my 73 to a Mackie LM-3204. But I'm not sure what grade would be justified for a 4 meter or so run.
The Mackie is connected to a Marantz power amp with balanced Monster cables, which reduce the noise floor remarkably.
Should I go high-end for the Kronos?
Should I be seduced by this?
"Zaolla Silverline balanced cable is available in convenient duplex format. Solid-silver conductors ensure full-frequency transmission, including high frequencies and textural details that copper simply cannot transmit. It is available exclusively in balanced phone terminations."

"Zaolla Silverline balanced cable is available in convenient duplex format. Solid-silver conductors ensure full-frequency transmission, including high frequencies and textural details that copper simply cannot transmit. It is available exclusively in balanced phone terminations."

- runningman67
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Tut tut. Pornographic images are not allowed on this Forumzengomi wrote:Should I be seduced by this?
"Zaolla Silverline balanced cable is available in convenient duplex format. Solid-silver conductors ensure full-frequency transmission, including high frequencies and textural details that copper simply cannot transmit. It is available exclusively in balanced phone terminations."



Get the best you can afford........always, I say.

I think you should not exaggerate when purchasing cables. Save yourself a ton of money and buy the cables at www.monoprice.com . I've used this same type of cable and others and the quality is excellent as well as the prices. No-brainer of a decision.
"The Oasys was made out of love...love lasts longer than fear"
Most of those overpriced cables are a complete lie. I tested a $150 cable and it was WORST than the cheapest cable I could find. It had so much capacitance it was like putting a capacitor on the end of your cable.
Korg Kronos, RD-88, Yamaha VL1, Deep Mind 6, Korg Kross, author of unrealBook for iPad.
Re: cable kanoodling
Any standard instrument cable will do the job.Should I go high-end for the Kronos?
Please be smarter than so many so-called "audiophiles" and don't fall in the same fool-trap in which they fall, cf. chapter 1 of this document.
- michelkeijzers
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What I normally buy is not the cheapest one and not the most expensive one ... somewhere in between is mostly good value for the money.

Developer of the free PCG file managing application for most Korg workstations: PCG Tools, see https://www.kronoshaven.com/pcgtools/
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+1 on MONOPRICE
Monoprice is an excellent source for all types of cables. Gold plated connectors are an advantage. Physical ruggedness is important if the cable will be stepped on or abused. The output impedance of the Kronos is low - capacitance should not be a problem with short runs.franzlp wrote:I think you should not exaggerate when purchasing cables. Save yourself a ton of money and buy the cables at www.monoprice.com . I've used this same type of cable and others and the quality is excellent as well as the prices. No-brainer of a decision.
Sina,
Did you also replace the cables connecting the speaker binding posts to the crossovers in your B&Ws with the same quality of cable? What about the interconnects within your amp? Or are you still reluing on the relatively low-cost interconnects shipped in these products from the factory?
Did you also replace the cables connecting the speaker binding posts to the crossovers in your B&Ws with the same quality of cable? What about the interconnects within your amp? Or are you still reluing on the relatively low-cost interconnects shipped in these products from the factory?
Current Equipment:
Korg Kronos 2 88, Reface CS, Roland JV-1080, TE OP1, Moog Subsequent 37, Korg ARP Odyssey, Allen & Heath Zed 18, Adam F5, MOTU MIDI Express XT, Lexicon MX200 & MPX1, Yamaha QY700, Yamaha AW16G, Tascam DP008ex, Zoom H6, Organelle, Roland J6 & JU06A
Previous: Triton LE 61/Sampling/64MB/4GB SCSI, MS2000BR, Kronos 1 61, Monotribe, NanoKontrol, NanoKeys, Kaossilator II, Casio HT3000, Roland VP-03, Reface DX, Novation Mininova, MPC One
Korg Kronos 2 88, Reface CS, Roland JV-1080, TE OP1, Moog Subsequent 37, Korg ARP Odyssey, Allen & Heath Zed 18, Adam F5, MOTU MIDI Express XT, Lexicon MX200 & MPX1, Yamaha QY700, Yamaha AW16G, Tascam DP008ex, Zoom H6, Organelle, Roland J6 & JU06A
Previous: Triton LE 61/Sampling/64MB/4GB SCSI, MS2000BR, Kronos 1 61, Monotribe, NanoKontrol, NanoKeys, Kaossilator II, Casio HT3000, Roland VP-03, Reface DX, Novation Mininova, MPC One
Don't even start on cables Sina.
I never mentioned those specific cables. measure them to test what they do. But don't start on this pay more and get more stuff with cables. You do not always get better cable the more you pay.
BTW: how thick is the cabling in an op amp?
Well ok. 
I never mentioned those specific cables. measure them to test what they do. But don't start on this pay more and get more stuff with cables. You do not always get better cable the more you pay.
BTW: how thick is the cabling in an op amp?
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Also realize with high-end cables, that they have a break-in period as well

Korg Kronos, RD-88, Yamaha VL1, Deep Mind 6, Korg Kross, author of unrealBook for iPad.