Korg Forums

Hi Guys,

I have an 88 arriving tomorrow and from what I have been seeing the first thing I need to do is test the keybed!

From what I can see I need to check:

1. Clicking keys

2. The double bounce/cutoff problem

Is there anything else I should look out for?

Also is there a serial number from after the problems were sorted or are new ones still faulty?

Thanks for any advise.

Any

It's safer for you if serial # above that 3600 other issue is that the keybed doesn't allow to get full range of velocity. As most 120 (striking really hard)

Hi,

Thanks for the info, so 120 is normal or should I expect 127?

Cheers

Andy

BobTheDog wrote:Hi,

Thanks for the info, so 120 is normal or should I expect 127?

Cheers

Andy

120 as the maximum velocity will be normal. Not correct but normal. There's a thread where this is being discusses here: velocity curve doesn't reach 127

Ok, thanks for the info, fingers crossed I get a good one!

BobTheDog wrote:Ok, thanks for the info, fingers crossed I get a good one!

Apart from that, if you bought the Kronos from an online dealer, make sure to ask the serial number before they even ship to you. If it's not above 3600 or you don't know which serial number is, you better try other store.

Ah, too late for that. It was sent yesterday

Hi!

for testing the cutoff, try to play a note repeatedly and sustained.. if when you're pressing a key, suddenly the note getting stopped sounding, then it's the RH3 issue..

for clicking keys it's easy to test it (i've had it too).. after you release a note, then if you hear the key sounding "click" or the key is little bit sticky, then you have the clicking issue... it's very easy to solve.. it's only because of insufficient spacing between the keys and the front metal rail.. so the keys smack the front and causes click sound and sometimes sticky (because it's stuck)

good luck with your kronos!

MarPabl wrote:

BobTheDog wrote:Ok, thanks for the info, fingers crossed I get a good one!

Apart from that, if you bought the Kronos from an online dealer, make sure to ask the serial number before they even ship to you. If it's not above 3600 or you don't know which serial number is, you better try other store.

It has arrived, serial is 3559 so not quite 3600!

Well the keyboard seems fine with a quick check.

Which is more than I can say about the fan.

There is a normal fan noise which I could just about live with, but there is also a higher pitched oscillation sound which varies in frequency which is driving me mad!

I really don't expect a keyboard to make more noise than the MacPro sitting next to it

Cheers

Andy

Ok considering the serial number, it's very likely the keybed has the fix already applied

Anyway, on this thread there are details about the issue: Kronos 88 and RH3 keyboard faulty

Hi,

The keyboard seems fine to me, but then again I am not a great player!

Not sure if I can handle the fan noise though, you can hear it with closed back headphones on!

I'm not really sure that I fancy opening it up to change the fan so it is probably going back which is a shame

Cheers

Andy

You can take the Kronos to the service center and ask them to replace the fan and to upgrade the RAM. For the fan (and the RAM), there are detailed guidelines: KRONOS Fan Fix (read from beginning) New recommended fan

It's advisable that when you arrive to the service center, you also have with you the fan and RAM you want to be installed. This way, you can have it upgraded the very same day.

hey actually you can tell whether you have old keybed or new one by looking at the keybed... if you look carefully between the gap of the keys, you should see the rubber padding / sensor.. if it's pink colored, you have the old keybed (i've had it too).. if it's white / blue you have the new one..

also check the spacings between the keybed and the front rail... if it's no thicker than a piece of cigarette box, you may probably want to fix it to avoid clunking keybed

1jordyzzz wrote:hey actually you can tell whether you have old keybed or new one by looking at the keybed... if you look carefully between the gap of the keys, you should see the rubber padding / sensor.. if it's pink colored, you have the old keybed (i've had it too).. if it's white / blue you have the new one..

Really?

That's the first time I've every hear of a method of identifying without opening up the board. Interesting.

Any particular keys that you have to peer through?

Lawrence