Upgrading RAM in 73 and 88 note models?
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Upgrading RAM in 73 and 88 note models?
I just picked up a Kronos 73 and am thinking of adding the extra memory because I use a lot of custom samples.
I've put RAM in a Kronos 61 and know all too well how the keybed is held in place by the screws on the bottom. Is that the same with the 73 and 88? If I take the bottom off of a 73, do I need to worry about the guts falling out of place or is everything stable?
I've put RAM in a Kronos 61 and know all too well how the keybed is held in place by the screws on the bottom. Is that the same with the 73 and 88? If I take the bottom off of a 73, do I need to worry about the guts falling out of place or is everything stable?
Korg Kronos 61 (2); Kurzweil PC4; Casio Privia PX-350m; Macbook Pro
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google Martin Hines ram install from a few yrs ago. he did a nice job explaining plus embedding photos
did a few ram installs back then. i always inserted the cardboard spacers to keep the 73/88 keybed stationary
i think or recall that only specific 25 screws should be removed from the bottom hatch. nothing falls out
did a few ram installs back then. i always inserted the cardboard spacers to keep the 73/88 keybed stationary
i think or recall that only specific 25 screws should be removed from the bottom hatch. nothing falls out
No big deal, I did it several times (fan, RAM, SSD), and afterwards my keybed was better placed than from factory, a missing screw for the fan added, and the RAM better fixed than before.
As Greg said, you find threads with detailed instructions and pics in this forum.
As Greg said, you find threads with detailed instructions and pics in this forum.
Kronos 73 - Moog Voyager RME - Moog LP TE - Behringer Model D - Prophet 6 - Roland Jupiter Xm - Rhodes Stage 73 Mk I - Elektron Analog Rytm MkII - Roland TR-6s - Cubase 12 Pro + Groove Agent 5
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While it's open, consider putting a little glue on the screws that hold down the motherboard. For me and my friend both, the screws get loose over time during transport, which leads to it rattling around inside and eventually your RAM popping out. This clearly doesn't happen to everyone but it did to me and the glue fixed it thoroughly. I used the kind that you use to close seams, I'm not sure what it's called in English. A small drop is plenty, all you need to do is keep the screw in place.
Be aware that doing this may affect warranty.
Placing the kronos upside down onto a soft surface like cushions etc,is an acceptable method(as shown in previous videos) or padded blocks under each end on a bench/table.
Extra care needs to be taken to avoid fouling the joysticks !
This will provide access to the removal of the board and all the screws.
Nothing will fall out,the rubber contacts are captive as part of the keyframe assembly,the frame will have free movement,but is of no real concern at the is stage.
The memory card routine is fairly straightforward…..ensuring usual static precautions are adhered to (computer work etc).
Replacing the board is a reversal of removal,paying attention to aligning things up.
Better to locate all the screws first,prior to tightening and this is where the spacer cards are deployed to maintain the front bar gap.
There are screw tightening sequences plus torque settings to follow,but with some care and common sense all should be well.
Placing the kronos upside down onto a soft surface like cushions etc,is an acceptable method(as shown in previous videos) or padded blocks under each end on a bench/table.
Extra care needs to be taken to avoid fouling the joysticks !
This will provide access to the removal of the board and all the screws.
Nothing will fall out,the rubber contacts are captive as part of the keyframe assembly,the frame will have free movement,but is of no real concern at the is stage.
The memory card routine is fairly straightforward…..ensuring usual static precautions are adhered to (computer work etc).
Replacing the board is a reversal of removal,paying attention to aligning things up.
Better to locate all the screws first,prior to tightening and this is where the spacer cards are deployed to maintain the front bar gap.
There are screw tightening sequences plus torque settings to follow,but with some care and common sense all should be well.
Thanks, everyone. This is an old board that is well out of warranty. It has the double-trigger issue and is being repaired for that right now.
I know nothing "falls out" of the keyboard when the bottom is opened. I'm referring to the fact that the bottom screws (on the 61 at least) hold the keybed in place and was just wondering whether that was the case for the weighted models...it appears to be. I'll find the older threads.
Bill
I know nothing "falls out" of the keyboard when the bottom is opened. I'm referring to the fact that the bottom screws (on the 61 at least) hold the keybed in place and was just wondering whether that was the case for the weighted models...it appears to be. I'll find the older threads.
Bill
Korg Kronos 61 (2); Kurzweil PC4; Casio Privia PX-350m; Macbook Pro
Just to confirm,the keyframe is held to the board as described and usually presents no problems in itself while the Kronos is stationary without the screws etc.
Interested to know more about the double-trigger issue and subsequent repair.....please let us know the result.
If this is done elsewhere, would it be possible for the memory board to be installed at the same time ?
Best Wishes.
Interested to know more about the double-trigger issue and subsequent repair.....please let us know the result.
If this is done elsewhere, would it be possible for the memory board to be installed at the same time ?
Best Wishes.