Hi all,
I am about to embark on the Kronos trail, but after reading all about the keybed issue, I wanted to ask experienced users if there is a list of "from and to" serial numbers to avoid?
I live about 9 hours drive from the nearest city that has Korg repairers so it would be a MAJOR hassle ot buy one and then have to return it two weeks later!!!
Thanks
buying a Kronos - serial numbers to avoid????
Moderators: Sharp, X-Trade, Pepperpotty, karmathanever
From what I can tell reading threads here, there is no such list.
I suspect that if anyone knows what the 'from and to' list really is, it will be Korg.
And they're hardly going to publish that list as it will kill the resale value of the affected units (even if they've had the upgrade), thus in turn affecting sales of new units if such serials have not been sold yet (worldwide).
Just the mad thoughts of a tired Scotsman... or is it the tired thoughts of a mad Scotsman... hmmmm.
PS am not an 'experienced [Kronos] user' but just wanted to provide a response!
I suspect that if anyone knows what the 'from and to' list really is, it will be Korg.
And they're hardly going to publish that list as it will kill the resale value of the affected units (even if they've had the upgrade), thus in turn affecting sales of new units if such serials have not been sold yet (worldwide).
Just the mad thoughts of a tired Scotsman... or is it the tired thoughts of a mad Scotsman... hmmmm.
PS am not an 'experienced [Kronos] user' but just wanted to provide a response!
Plugged in: Fantom 8, Jupiter-X, Jupiter 80, System-8, JD-XA, V-Synth GTv2, FA-06, SE-02, JU-06A, TR-09, VT-4, Go:Livecast, Rubix44, Shure SM7b, Push2, Ableton 11 Suite, Sibelius, KRK Rokit 5,
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runningman67
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LOL, thanks Cello...I have hunted around for such a list, or ANY snippets regarding serial #'s to avoid, with not much luck, asking here was sort of like a last resort..and I agree...I SERIOUSLY doubt Korg will provide anything...
I was sorta hoping Kronos users would have figured out approx where the non-affected serial numbers start at....
I was sorta hoping Kronos users would have figured out approx where the non-affected serial numbers start at....
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runningman67
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miden wrote:LOL, thanks Cello...I have hunted around for such a list, or ANY snippets regarding serial #'s to avoid, with not much luck, asking here was sort of like a last resort..and I agree...I SERIOUSLY doubt Korg will provide anything...
I was sorta hoping Kronos users would have figured out approx where the non-affected serial numbers start at....
Lol
Avoid #666
#13
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Bruce Lychee
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This thread is an unfortunate but expected consequence of the RH3 debacle that Korg created.
Nobody should consider buying a used Kronos unless it has the new keybed. If Korg thought the original RH3 needed to be redesigned why would anyone feel comfortable buying the old one?
As for serial numbers... Don't expect that from Korg anytime soon.
Nobody should consider buying a used Kronos unless it has the new keybed. If Korg thought the original RH3 needed to be redesigned why would anyone feel comfortable buying the old one?
As for serial numbers... Don't expect that from Korg anytime soon.
Shigeru Kawai SK5
Roland Jupiter 80
Vintage Vibe 64
Roland Jupiter 80
Vintage Vibe 64
runningman67 wrote:
Lol
Avoid #666
#13
Now that's funny!
I had 3 around the 2008-2016 that had the keybed problem. The one I have now is in the early 3,000 and it is supposed to be the new keybed but it came with the 1.52 OS so I don't know. I saw another person who had received a new board in the 3000's that came with 1.50 so it is hard to tell what's what.
The board I have now seems to work very well. I've played it for a solid day and there are a couple of spaces that aren't quite uniform but nothing that will cause any problems. I reported that the key travel seems to be slightly shorter but this may be me just picking it to death after all the trouble I had.
Korg USA helped me and I appreciate their efforts. All is forgiven and I now have my dream keyboard (that works).
Ten2One
Lol
Avoid #666
#13
Now that's funny!
I had 3 around the 2008-2016 that had the keybed problem. The one I have now is in the early 3,000 and it is supposed to be the new keybed but it came with the 1.52 OS so I don't know. I saw another person who had received a new board in the 3000's that came with 1.50 so it is hard to tell what's what.
The board I have now seems to work very well. I've played it for a solid day and there are a couple of spaces that aren't quite uniform but nothing that will cause any problems. I reported that the key travel seems to be slightly shorter but this may be me just picking it to death after all the trouble I had.
Korg USA helped me and I appreciate their efforts. All is forgiven and I now have my dream keyboard (that works).
Ten2One
take a look at this:
http://www.korgforums.com/forum/phpBB2/ ... hp?t=71061
now let's assume, that if you got the kronos that:
1. had a serial number more than 3600
2. had a system of 1.50, 1.52, or the newest 1.60
you won't have a defective keybed.
http://www.korgforums.com/forum/phpBB2/ ... hp?t=71061
now let's assume, that if you got the kronos that:
1. had a serial number more than 3600
2. had a system of 1.50, 1.52, or the newest 1.60
you won't have a defective keybed.
Love my kronos 88 
Love my yamaha psr s910 as well
Korg Kronos 88, Yamaha PSR s910, Korg C720, Yamaha DTX 520, Focusrite Scarlett 18i6, a pair of Yamaha HS80 in (soon not to be) an unproperly treated room..
Love my yamaha psr s910 as well
Korg Kronos 88, Yamaha PSR s910, Korg C720, Yamaha DTX 520, Focusrite Scarlett 18i6, a pair of Yamaha HS80 in (soon not to be) an unproperly treated room..
avoid number that are not natural, such as irrational numbers or fraction.
Avoid pi as a serial number.
Avoid pi as a serial number.
Kronos-6, Krome, M3, Radias, KingKorg, microKorg, KP-2, KP-3, KO-1, KO-1 PRO, Karma, microX, monotron, monotribe, PadCONTROL, Wavedrum Mini, Volca Keys, Beats, Bass, Sample, monotron Duo & Delay, microArranger, M1, Wavestation, Volca Sample, Keys, Beats & Bass, MS-20
JD-XA, JD-Xi, Aira (system 1, TB3, TR8, MX-1), Prophet 12, Mopho X4, Jupiter-80, FA-06, D50, CS1x, CZ101, DX200, AN200, analogFOUR, MachineDrum, MonoMachine, Motif XF6, Virus Snow, Nord Lead 2X, OP-1, MFOS, Tenori-on, QY100, QY70, meeblip se, miniBrute, microBrute, Bass Station 2
JD-XA, JD-Xi, Aira (system 1, TB3, TR8, MX-1), Prophet 12, Mopho X4, Jupiter-80, FA-06, D50, CS1x, CZ101, DX200, AN200, analogFOUR, MachineDrum, MonoMachine, Motif XF6, Virus Snow, Nord Lead 2X, OP-1, MFOS, Tenori-on, QY100, QY70, meeblip se, miniBrute, microBrute, Bass Station 2
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danmusician
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Seriously, this whole thing is so overblown. It comes down to this:
Some Kronoses have some defective switches under the keys. When replaced, the instrument won't double strike/cut-off anymore. Newer instruments already have the improved switches. If you get one with bad switches, it's an easy fix.
Some Kronoses have unevenly spaced gaps. This is a cosmetic concern only. The keys can be adjusted. The official Korg tool is a screwdriver. If it bothers you, a service center can adjust it.
Some Kronoses have a problem with keys rubbing the front rail under the keys. Again, an easily adjusted fix.
The actual number instruments with these problems is very small. For all the belly-aching on these boards, these are really small time issues that are easily fixed.
My Kronos was in the shop today. I watched as the technician opened it up. He showed me the switches and how the new ones fix the problem. He also showed me the service bulletins for the gaps and the switches.
For people thinking that the newer instruments have some magic new RH3 keybed, the difference is the switches. If you have a defective one, get it fixed. Putting in a new keybed is no different than fixing the switches on the bed you have. There will be no difference in resale value from one or the other.
Seriously, it's time to drop all this crap and make some music with the thing!
If you don't have one, go buy one. You'll love it!
Some Kronoses have some defective switches under the keys. When replaced, the instrument won't double strike/cut-off anymore. Newer instruments already have the improved switches. If you get one with bad switches, it's an easy fix.
Some Kronoses have unevenly spaced gaps. This is a cosmetic concern only. The keys can be adjusted. The official Korg tool is a screwdriver. If it bothers you, a service center can adjust it.
Some Kronoses have a problem with keys rubbing the front rail under the keys. Again, an easily adjusted fix.
The actual number instruments with these problems is very small. For all the belly-aching on these boards, these are really small time issues that are easily fixed.
My Kronos was in the shop today. I watched as the technician opened it up. He showed me the switches and how the new ones fix the problem. He also showed me the service bulletins for the gaps and the switches.
For people thinking that the newer instruments have some magic new RH3 keybed, the difference is the switches. If you have a defective one, get it fixed. Putting in a new keybed is no different than fixing the switches on the bed you have. There will be no difference in resale value from one or the other.
Seriously, it's time to drop all this crap and make some music with the thing!
If you don't have one, go buy one. You'll love it!
Kronos 2 88, Kronos Classic 73, PX-5S, Kronos 2 61, Roli Seaboard Rise 49
With respect, it would seem you don't live a 14 hours drive away from the ONLY Korg warranty repair centre...this centre not onyl does Kronos but EVERY other Korg product - average turn-around time is 3-7 weeks!!!danmusician wrote:Seriously, this whole thing is so overblown. It comes down to this:
Some Kronoses have some defective switches under the keys. When replaced, the instrument won't double strike/cut-off anymore. Newer instruments already have the improved switches. If you get one with bad switches, it's an easy fix.
Some Kronoses have unevenly spaced gaps. This is a cosmetic concern only. The keys can be adjusted. The official Korg tool is a screwdriver. If it bothers you, a service center can adjust it.
Some Kronoses have a problem with keys rubbing the front rail under the keys. Again, an easily adjusted fix.
The actual number instruments with these problems is very small. For all the belly-aching on these boards, these are really small time issues that are easily fixed.
My Kronos was in the shop today. I watched as the technician opened it up. He showed me the switches and how the new ones fix the problem. He also showed me the service bulletins for the gaps and the switches.
For people thinking that the newer instruments have some magic new RH3 keybed, the difference is the switches. If you have a defective one, get it fixed. Putting in a new keybed is no different than fixing the switches on the bed you have. There will be no difference in resale value from one or the other.
Seriously, it's time to drop all this crap and make some music with the thing!
If you don't have one, go buy one. You'll love it!
Not everywhere is like the USA you know
So it is not really as simple as you are trying to portray...and if it was NOT such an issue, why are so many people complaining about it.....where there is smoke there is usually a fire of some sort...
Far better to sort out BEFORE buying rather than after....