Battarypack Electribe EMX
Moderators: Sharp, X-Trade, Pepperpotty, karmathanever
ok, enough with all this bs non tried ideas that people are throwing out there without trying. IT IS AC. IT WILL RUN OFF A BATTERY... BUT it will drain a lot of power fast. Each electribe consumes 2 amps. You gotta realise that tubes operate at high voltage so there is probably something that boosts up the 9 volts into like 100. Think about this as powering two of those flourescent spiral light bulbs off of a battery.(or one 17 watt one)
If you tear off the extra pin in a midi cable, it will bend into shape. In fact a strandart midi cable i/o wires will connect to the right pins to give it power.
With a fully charged 9 volt battery you can get the unit to turn on and act as a sequencer. The only thing that does not power up is the tube circuitry. I haven't tried yet, but potentially you could run out of output 3/4.
one thing I thought about is a rechargible 10 volt power tool battery. They meet the spects however I don't know how long it could last.
If you tear off the extra pin in a midi cable, it will bend into shape. In fact a strandart midi cable i/o wires will connect to the right pins to give it power.
With a fully charged 9 volt battery you can get the unit to turn on and act as a sequencer. The only thing that does not power up is the tube circuitry. I haven't tried yet, but potentially you could run out of output 3/4.
one thing I thought about is a rechargible 10 volt power tool battery. They meet the spects however I don't know how long it could last.
Wow, this thread has grown crazily. I haven't been on because it was down for a while and it didn't email me about new replies, weird.
Now as for connecting a power strip to the car battery, no, a car battery is 12v DC. Depending on where you live, the wall socket is either ~110v 60Hz AC or ~220v 50Hz AC, IIRC.
Finally no, you cannot use a mini DIN cable because it is mini. Compare a MIDI (DIN-5) to an older (PS/2) keyboard or mouse, which is mini din (I think 4 or 5, haven't used one of those ancient things in years).
Let me try to handle this in a civil manner. First off, let's get the facts straight. The new electribe series consumes a MAXIMUM of 3A. It doesn't matter what they do with that power, just that that is the MAXIMUM consumption. Devices don't usually use the maximum.
If anyone has a voltmeter I think we would all appreciate it if they could take readings from the 4 pins on the power cable. I don't own a newer series electribe.
As for the lightbulb analogy, well 17 watts is not a lot of power in my opinion, I mean, an average car battery contains ~1200 watt-hours of energy, so it could easily run that bulb for 50 hours without breaking a sweat.
I don't know what "In fact a strandart midi cable i/o wires will connect to the right pins to give it power. " means, but if you are implying that plugging a MIDI cable into your power socket will power your electribe, you are sorely mistaken. That said, you know that they consume at least a couple amps so I'm going to hope it was just a confusing, poorly worded statement and nothing more.
AFAIK most drill batts are just NiMH cells, you could easily build your own NiMH battery pack and save some cash instead of purchasing drill batts.
Now I realize your post count and join date imply superiority to a relative n00b to the forum such as myself, but your atrocious spelling and incoherent statements as well as some of your most recent posts make me feel as though I have stepped into a 7th grade chat room. I see no reason why we can't all work together for a common goal but please try to be more like Borg and less like oscar the incoherent rambling grouch who can't spell.
Now we can certainly convert DC to AC if necessary, but if Ruso is right about the x-tribes working with straight up DC current then there is no need to waste time on that step. If anyone could verify that we could move on
So first off, yes you can measure the current your 'tribe (or any electronic device) is using, you just put a voltmeter in series with the tribe and set it to current measurement. I have not done this because I'm lazy.Borg wrote:n3ldan: Is there someway you can measure the used mA-amount?
Yeah, a car battery (or multiple) would be perfect for a outdoor jam with some friends, but as supermel said not for commuting.But if you're gonna use a car battery, how do I connect to the ESX-1? What adapter are you talking about? Can't I just connect a power strip to the battery?
Oh, great!Thanks. Could I use a S-VHS (S-Video) cable? Apparently it's a "mini DIN-4". Don't know the difference.
Now as for connecting a power strip to the car battery, no, a car battery is 12v DC. Depending on where you live, the wall socket is either ~110v 60Hz AC or ~220v 50Hz AC, IIRC.
Finally no, you cannot use a mini DIN cable because it is mini. Compare a MIDI (DIN-5) to an older (PS/2) keyboard or mouse, which is mini din (I think 4 or 5, haven't used one of those ancient things in years).
Well f*ck up the battery idea it does! I didn't realize they used 9v AC, that seems strange to me. I figured they had an on-board inverter to power the tubes.4NDRW wrote:does anyone know if the electribe mx/sx power supply is the same as the Korg Karma power supply?
it looks about the size of a midi cable, but 4pins
and runs 9Volts 3000mA AC
as in the output is low voltage AC
which kinda fucks up the battery thing.
i'd imagine you'd need
an inverter or electronic oscillator or something
connected to your DC battery
or.....
as i'm sure the actual circuit inside the unit would be DC
maybe there's some AC->DC conversion going on inside the unit
because you wouldn't run circuit boards off AC would you?
maybe you could bypass this power conversion...
and run a dc voltage straight to the circuit?
wouldn't want to blow up your 'tribe though
Hmm...Ruso wrote:ok, enough with all this bs non tried ideas that people are throwing out there without trying. IT IS AC. IT WILL RUN OFF A BATTERY... BUT it will drain a lot of power fast. Each electribe consumes 2 amps. You gotta realise that tubes operate at high voltage so there is probably something that boosts up the 9 volts into like 100. Think about this as powering two of those flourescent spiral light bulbs off of a battery.(or one 17 watt one)
If you tear off the extra pin in a midi cable, it will bend into shape. In fact a standard midi cable i/o wires will connect to the right pins to give it power.
With a fully charged 9 volt battery you can get the unit to turn on and act as a sequencer. The only thing that does not power up is the tube circuitry. I haven't tried yet, but potentially you could run out of output 3/4.
one thing I thought about is a rechargible 10 volt power tool battery. They meet the spects however I don't know how long it could last.
Let me try to handle this in a civil manner. First off, let's get the facts straight. The new electribe series consumes a MAXIMUM of 3A. It doesn't matter what they do with that power, just that that is the MAXIMUM consumption. Devices don't usually use the maximum.
If anyone has a voltmeter I think we would all appreciate it if they could take readings from the 4 pins on the power cable. I don't own a newer series electribe.
As for the lightbulb analogy, well 17 watts is not a lot of power in my opinion, I mean, an average car battery contains ~1200 watt-hours of energy, so it could easily run that bulb for 50 hours without breaking a sweat.
I don't know what "In fact a strandart midi cable i/o wires will connect to the right pins to give it power. " means, but if you are implying that plugging a MIDI cable into your power socket will power your electribe, you are sorely mistaken. That said, you know that they consume at least a couple amps so I'm going to hope it was just a confusing, poorly worded statement and nothing more.
A fully charged 9 volt battery? Are you talking about a PP3 (the kind you put in a smoke detector)? Assuming you actually tried this (and aren't contributing "bs non tried ideas") this means the new electribes can run off 9v DC just fine, save for the tubes. If this is true, then we can just find an appropriate battery pack. If you are lying, then we will need to design or find a "power inverter", something that converts DC (from the battery) to AC (for the 'tribe).With a fully charged 9 volt battery you can get the unit to turn on and act as a sequencer. The only thing that does not power up is the tube circuitry. I haven't tried yet, but potentially you could run out of output 3/4.
They meet the specs? What specs? They are 1v too high and you don't know the amp-hour rating, so what specs could they possibly meet? They exist and you know about them?one thing I thought about is a rechargible 10 volt power tool battery. They meet the spects however I don't know how long it could last.
AFAIK most drill batts are just NiMH cells, you could easily build your own NiMH battery pack and save some cash instead of purchasing drill batts.
Now I realize your post count and join date imply superiority to a relative n00b to the forum such as myself, but your atrocious spelling and incoherent statements as well as some of your most recent posts make me feel as though I have stepped into a 7th grade chat room. I see no reason why we can't all work together for a common goal but please try to be more like Borg and less like oscar the incoherent rambling grouch who can't spell.
Now we can certainly convert DC to AC if necessary, but if Ruso is right about the x-tribes working with straight up DC current then there is no need to waste time on that step. If anyone could verify that we could move on

dude. lets begin by saying quit assuming t he people you talk to are stupid. Second read before you respond. Third shrink your ego for a minute and talk like a person instead of throwing "scientific sounding" statements at people to seem smart.n3ldan wrote:Wow, this thread has grown crazily. I haven't been on because it was down for a while and it didn't email me about new replies, weird.
So first off, yes you can measure the current your 'tribe (or any electronic device) is using, you just put a voltmeter in series with the tribe and set it to current measurement. I have not done this because I'm lazy.Borg wrote:n3ldan: Is there someway you can measure the used mA-amount?
Yeah, a car battery (or multiple) would be perfect for a outdoor jam with some friends, but as supermel said not for commuting.But if you're gonna use a car battery, how do I connect to the ESX-1? What adapter are you talking about? Can't I just connect a power strip to the battery?
Oh, great!Thanks. Could I use a S-VHS (S-Video) cable? Apparently it's a "mini DIN-4". Don't know the difference.
Now as for connecting a power strip to the car battery, no, a car battery is 12v DC. Depending on where you live, the wall socket is either ~110v 60Hz AC or ~220v 50Hz AC, IIRC.
Finally no, you cannot use a mini DIN cable because it is mini. Compare a MIDI (DIN-5) to an older (PS/2) keyboard or mouse, which is mini din (I think 4 or 5, haven't used one of those ancient things in years).
Well f*ck up the battery idea it does! I didn't realize they used 9v AC, that seems strange to me. I figured they had an on-board inverter to power the tubes.4NDRW wrote:does anyone know if the electribe mx/sx power supply is the same as the Korg Karma power supply?
it looks about the size of a midi cable, but 4pins
and runs 9Volts 3000mA AC
as in the output is low voltage AC
which kinda fucks up the battery thing.
i'd imagine you'd need
an inverter or electronic oscillator or something
connected to your DC battery
or.....
as i'm sure the actual circuit inside the unit would be DC
maybe there's some AC->DC conversion going on inside the unit
because you wouldn't run circuit boards off AC would you?
maybe you could bypass this power conversion...
and run a dc voltage straight to the circuit?
wouldn't want to blow up your 'tribe though
Hmm...Ruso wrote:ok, enough with all this bs non tried ideas that people are throwing out there without trying. IT IS AC. IT WILL RUN OFF A BATTERY... BUT it will drain a lot of power fast. Each electribe consumes 2 amps. You gotta realise that tubes operate at high voltage so there is probably something that boosts up the 9 volts into like 100. Think about this as powering two of those flourescent spiral light bulbs off of a battery.(or one 17 watt one)
If you tear off the extra pin in a midi cable, it will bend into shape. In fact a standard midi cable i/o wires will connect to the right pins to give it power.
With a fully charged 9 volt battery you can get the unit to turn on and act as a sequencer. The only thing that does not power up is the tube circuitry. I haven't tried yet, but potentially you could run out of output 3/4.
one thing I thought about is a rechargible 10 volt power tool battery. They meet the spects however I don't know how long it could last.
Let me try to handle this in a civil manner. First off, let's get the facts straight. The new electribe series consumes a MAXIMUM of 3A. It doesn't matter what they do with that power, just that that is the MAXIMUM consumption. Devices don't usually use the maximum.
If anyone has a voltmeter I think we would all appreciate it if they could take readings from the 4 pins on the power cable. I don't own a newer series electribe.
As for the lightbulb analogy, well 17 watts is not a lot of power in my opinion, I mean, an average car battery contains ~1200 watt-hours of energy, so it could easily run that bulb for 50 hours without breaking a sweat.
I don't know what "In fact a strandart midi cable i/o wires will connect to the right pins to give it power. " means, but if you are implying that plugging a MIDI cable into your power socket will power your electribe, you are sorely mistaken. That said, you know that they consume at least a couple amps so I'm going to hope it was just a confusing, poorly worded statement and nothing more.
A fully charged 9 volt battery? Are you talking about a PP3 (the kind you put in a smoke detector)? Assuming you actually tried this (and aren't contributing "bs non tried ideas") this means the new electribes can run off 9v DC just fine, save for the tubes. If this is true, then we can just find an appropriate battery pack. If you are lying, then we will need to design or find a "power inverter", something that converts DC (from the battery) to AC (for the 'tribe).With a fully charged 9 volt battery you can get the unit to turn on and act as a sequencer. The only thing that does not power up is the tube circuitry. I haven't tried yet, but potentially you could run out of output 3/4.
They meet the specs? What specs? They are 1v too high and you don't know the amp-hour rating, so what specs could they possibly meet? They exist and you know about them?one thing I thought about is a rechargible 10 volt power tool battery. They meet the spects however I don't know how long it could last.
AFAIK most drill batts are just NiMH cells, you could easily build your own NiMH battery pack and save some cash instead of purchasing drill batts.
Now I realize your post count and join date imply superiority to a relative n00b to the forum such as myself, but your atrocious spelling and incoherent statements as well as some of your most recent posts make me feel as though I have stepped into a 7th grade chat room. I see no reason why we can't all work together for a common goal but please try to be more like Borg and less like oscar the incoherent rambling grouch who can't spell.
Now we can certainly convert DC to AC if necessary, but if Ruso is right about the x-tribes working with straight up DC current then there is no need to waste time on that step. If anyone could verify that we could move on
YES it starts from a 9 volt battery, I told you that, it is a standard 9 volt battery. I said that, don't repeat it in question form when it's put as a statement.
They are rated @ 3 amp for a reason... it might not use the whole 3 amp but think about it, we're talking vacuum tubes. They use a lot of power.
An electribes input is SPECIFICALLY ~9 volt. NOT 9 volt.
I've given them anywhere between 9 and 15 they are just fine.
and YES you CAN use a standard MIDI cable, remove one of the pins in it, and connect the STANDARD send/receive wires to your power source and they line up to the proper pins on the electribe.
they meet the specs enough to turn on the electribe at full power and power it flawlessly for an untested length of time longer then an hour.They meet the specs? What specs? They are 1v too high and you don't know the amp-hour rating, so what specs could they possibly meet? They exist and you know about them?
There are six spelling mistakes total in the whole post. Could it be because this is a forum and I typed it fast? How does this make me sound like a 7th grader?Now I realize your post count and join date imply superiority to a relative n00b to the forum such as myself, but your atrocious spelling and incoherent statements as well as some of your most recent posts make me feel as though I have stepped into a 7th grade chat room.
As for your stupid remark about the light bulb. I'm no electrician although I have a relatively extensive understanding in very similar areas which either directly or indirectly use the principles, but something tells me that you won't be able to light a fluorescent light bulb that is 17 watts that requires 115 watts from a car battery. The initial charge to excite the gas inside has to be high voltage..
Don't ever accuse me of lying, I'm one of the very few people you will meet that very rarely lies.
As for my strange wording? Perhaps it's because English is my second language. I was born in Russia and in case you don't know, they speak a different language there


Now are we gonna talk civil or are you going to continue this pathetic bull s h i t?
If you want to continue..
Please be a little bit more specific.as well as some of your most recent posts
Whoa, whoa! Chill out, guys! Stop downgrading eachother. You're both making very interesting points, and they could all be stated without the harsh language.
Now, let's get back to the subject as brothers and sisters.
So let me get this straight - you could take an ordinary 9V battery and hook it up to the x-tribe with an ordinary midi cable with a broken off pin?
Ruso, have you tried this? Anyone? Would be nice to know how long it could run like that, and how many batteries you should connect in series to get enough run time. Unfortunately I have no chance of testing this, since I recently spent all my money on a new mixer.
We're gonna solve this together. Happy thoughts!
Now, let's get back to the subject as brothers and sisters.

So let me get this straight - you could take an ordinary 9V battery and hook it up to the x-tribe with an ordinary midi cable with a broken off pin?
Ruso, have you tried this? Anyone? Would be nice to know how long it could run like that, and how many batteries you should connect in series to get enough run time. Unfortunately I have no chance of testing this, since I recently spent all my money on a new mixer.
We're gonna solve this together. Happy thoughts!

Ain't got no monkeys in my family.




There's nothing to solve. You can run it from a ten volt power tool battery.
As for language, I am not going to tolerate being treated in such a way when all I did was provide valid information. I am not going to tolerate someone insinuating that I'm lying and lastly, I will not tolerate someone trying to reword my phrases trying to make me look stupid when they are totally valid true, and tested points.
As for language, I am not going to tolerate being treated in such a way when all I did was provide valid information. I am not going to tolerate someone insinuating that I'm lying and lastly, I will not tolerate someone trying to reword my phrases trying to make me look stupid when they are totally valid true, and tested points.
Actually Borg, to increase runtime you need to add more batteries in parallel; adding more in series would increase the voltage and fry your x-tribehow many batteries you should connect in series to get enough run time.

And Ruso, first off, the fact that english is your second language clears up quite a bit. You speak better english than I speak russian

Furthermore my "scientific sounding" statements are not intended to mislead people into believing I am more intelligent than I am, they are merely clearly worded statements. I challenge you to find one statement that I made that was frivolously "scientific sounding".
I'm sorry, but implying my ideas are "bs non tried ideas" and that I'm "throwing out there without trying" is, in my opinion, insulting enough to warrant my admittedly angry response.
Jeez, first you try to make peace and then you go out calling my statement of fact stupid again... Your "relatively extensive understanding" clearly wasn't enough to help you grasp the concept of energy storage. Also, when you say "that requires 115 watts" I'm pretty sure you mean it requires 115v, so I'm going to let you off on that one as a typo.As for your stupid remark about the light bulb. I'm no electrician although I have a relatively extensive understanding in very similar areas which either directly or indirectly use the principles, but something tells me that you won't be able to light a fluorescent light bulb that is 17 watts that requires 115 watts from a car battery. The initial charge to excite the gas inside has to be high voltage..
Why don't you read http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Watt
It clearly explains that wattage is not a measure of electrical current, but a measure of energy over time, and can be applied to all types of energy.
Sure, you would need an inverter, and they are not 100% efficient, but you would still easily get 50 hours run time out of the light without completely draining the battery.
When applying the concept of watts to electricity, you will find that amps X volts = watts. Thus a 17 watt CFL @ 110v is drawing less than 0.16A. Of course, they draw more current when starting and may convert that energy into a different voltage within the circuitry inside that little plastic shell, but all of this is irrelevant because we know it draws about 17 watts, and that a car battery contains about 1200 watt-hours.
You see, I don't assume the people I talk to are stupid, I simply learn that they are after they unintentionally reveal it to me.
If you would kindly point me to any remarks I made that imply I didn't "read before respond[ing]" I would appreciate it, as I made sure I thoroughly read your post before responding.
As for the 9v battery question, I was merely verifying that it was a pp3, one of those little tiny things. I am surprised it provided enough current, considering they are under 700mAh and, IIRC can't provide much more than 50ma continuous... of course I'm talking about alkaline pp3s, did you use a NiCd? The problem with saying "9 volt battery" is that plenty of different batteries meet that definition.
Also, what, may I ask, inspired you to put 15 volts in your x-tribe? I'm not saying it couldn't handle it, I just don't see why anyone would put 66% more voltage that the power supply does through several hundred dollars of electronics. For that matter, what reasoning led you to put DC current in a device that clearly runs off AC?
First off, I just want to know what the alternative to the "STANDARD send/recieve wires" are. The auxillary send/recieve wires? Also, only one wire is actually responsible for sending or recieving data, pin 5 (or 4, I can never remember which). And a single MIDI cable cannot send & recieve data at the same time. And if you want to argue about semantics, there is never a wire that is responsible for recieving data, it is merely sending it in the opposite direction; it's the midi device that recieves the data.and YES you CAN use a standard MIDI cable, remove one of the pins in it, and connect the STANDARD send/receive wires to your power source and they line up to the proper pins on the electribe.
Let me apologize for my poorly worded statement. I never meant to imply that a standard MIDI cable wouldn't physically fit in the socket after having a pin clipped - just the opposite in fact. I am glad to know that you can do such a thing because it means you no longer have to locate a DIN-4 plug. What I was saying is that if you think plugging the other end into another midi device would power the x-tribe, you are sorely mistaken. It seems pretty clear that this is not what you meant though.
However, you were unclear as to how you have it wired. This is how the pins are numbered in a 5 pin DIN cable, such as a MIDI cable. I know it seems weird but that's just the way it is. http://pinouts.ru/connectors/din5dm.gif
The pins are, starting all the way on the left at 3 and going counter-clockwise: NC, DATA, SHIELD, +5, NC. I'm assuming you clipped off pin number 2, the center pin. That means the remaining pins are 3,5,4,1 in that order. If you could tell us how you connected those 4 pins to your battery I'm sure we'd all appreciate it.
Now you say the drill batt turns the x-tribe "on at full power" - what exactly does that mean? Can you use the tubes?
And Ruso, there are things to solve. A 10v drill batt is not an ideal power supply, and certainly not the most economical choice.
Finally, I was referring to one of your posts where you said something along the lines of "the electribe is the perfect instrument for everyone"; a few posts down someone wrote a good paragraph insulting this opinion.
PS Borg what mixer did you buy and if you don't mind my asking how much did it cost and why, also was it worth it?
Last edited by n3ldan on Sat May 10, 2008 6:21 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- AmigaHeretic
- Posts: 46
- Joined: Sat Jan 26, 2008 9:22 am
Ha ha!! I read the previous posts and you THOUGHT he said you could just plug in a midi cable and it would power it. Of course that wasn't what he meant. Now amongst your ranting you are making excuses for why you "misinterpreted" what he said. Why didn't you just say oops I misunderstood??n3ldan wrote:You see, I don't assume the people I talk to are stupid, I simply learn that they are after they unintentionally reveal it to me.
I guess I'll do what you do and not assume you are stupid, but instead I'll just realize you unintentionally revealed it to me.

Back in my day, we didn't have water. We only had Oxygen and Hydrogen, and we'd have to just shove them together.
Oh... right. But, look at the example at the end of my post. That would require a connection in series. Would it work?n3ldan wrote:Actually Borg, to increase runtime you need to add more batteries in parallel; adding more in series would increase the voltage and fry your x-tribe
It's just that I don't know how to connect it. I'm not that experienced when it comes to soldering and building stuff. So I thinks it's you guys who should tell me how to connect the pins.n3ldan wrote:The pins are, starting all the way on the left at 3 and going counter-clockwise: NC, DATA, SHIELD, +5, NC. I'm assuming you clipped off pin number 2, the center pin. That means the remaining pins are 3,5,4,1 in that order. If you could tell us how you connected those 4 pins to your battery I'm sure we'd all appreciate it.

I'm answering that question in a PM to keep this thread clean from OT subjects.n3ldan wrote:PS Borg what mixer did you buy and if you don't mind my asking how much did it cost and why, also was it worth it?

----------------------
So, if it's possible to drive the machine on batteries, here's a list of components I think I'd need for the battery:
- 4-pack rechargeable HR6 CoTech batteries (1,2V/2500 mAh) 2 pcs
- Battery container for eight batteries
- Battery contact
- 1m/3.3ft midi cable
Eight HR6 batteries will give me: 1,2V*8 = 9,6V and 2500 mAh*8 = 20 000 mAh if I connect them in series.
How 'bout this? Would it work?
Last edited by Borg on Sat May 10, 2008 7:35 pm, edited 3 times in total.
Ain't got no monkeys in my family.




Making excuses? I assume you are referring to:AmigaHeretic wrote:Ha ha!! I read the previous posts and you THOUGHT he said you could just plug in a midi cable and it would power it. Of course that wasn't what he meant. Now amongst your ranting you are making excuses for why you "misinterpreted" what he said. Why didn't you just say oops I misunderstood??n3ldan wrote:You see, I don't assume the people I talk to are stupid, I simply learn that they are after they unintentionally reveal it to me.
I guess I'll do what you do and not assume you are stupid, but instead I'll just realize you unintentionally revealed it to me.
I wouldn't call that an excuse; I apologized, explained what I thought he meant, and then explained what I said in response to what I thought he said. I would consider that an "oops I misunderstood".Let me apologize for my poorly worded statement. I never meant to imply that a standard MIDI cable wouldn't physically fit in the socket after having a pin clipped - just the opposite in fact. I am glad to know that you can do such a thing because it means you no longer have to locate a DIN-4 plug. What I was saying is that if you think plugging the other end into another midi device would power the x-tribe, you are sorely mistaken. It seems pretty clear that this is not what you meant though.
Of course he's never cleared up what he really meant, read his response:
He says to connect the pins to your power source and they'll line up to the proper pins on the x-tribe. Well how the hell are you supposed to connect the pins to the power source!? Do they just magically "line up to the proper pins"? There are two leads from the battery, positive and negative, and four pins on the x-tribe, which are as far as I know unmarked. If he had said "If you look at the connector on the x-tribe, going left to right, the first two are negative and the second two are positive" I would have known what he was talking about and someone could try to replicate his setup.and YES you CAN use a standard MIDI cable, remove one of the pins in it, and connect the STANDARD send/receive wires to your power source and they line up to the proper pins on the electribe.
As it is no one really knows how he has set this up because he hasn't told us.
One misinterpretation should not be enough to make you think I am stupid. I would never assume anyone is stupid after one mistake, or several mistakes. I mean look at Borg, he said parallel instead of series but no one thinks he is stupid(sorry to keep singling you out Borg, but you are pretty much a model forum member). Ruso on the other hand has made many significant errors, claimed he was an expert on the topic, and then made more errors. Furthermore he has not provided adequate details to reconstruct his experiment, which is a red flag in the scientific world for fraud.
Ruso I have no problem with you, I just have a problem with people who:
1) repeatedly insult completely valid ideas
2) consistently use vague statements
3) accuse people of not reading the post when they clearly have
4) accuse people of using excessively complex language to confuse or impress others
5) claim to have expertise in areas which they clearly do not
6) refute scientific fact with "something tells me"
Actually if you connect them in series the current capacity is not multiplied.Borg wrote:Eight HR6 batteries will give me: 1,2V*8 = 9,6V and 2500 mAh*8 = 20 000 mAh if I connect them in series.
So 1.2*8=9.6v and 2500mAh. Still, you'd get two hours playing time. I would build it out of NiMH cells intended for RC though, cheaper and same storage density.
Good to know.
But I'm not sure how much cheaper that would be. But I'm thinking about doing so, so that I don't need to build a batterypack myself with risk of destroying something.
So I've got this in mind. It's on 9,6V and 2000 mAh. Only thing is that it's a "transmitter battery". On the site they sell bot transmitter and reciever batteries, as well as just batteries.
I have no idea what the difference is or if it matters in this case.
But if I hooked a couple of these up in parallel, do the capacity increase? Is this the easiest way of doing it?
But I'm not sure how much cheaper that would be. But I'm thinking about doing so, so that I don't need to build a batterypack myself with risk of destroying something.
So I've got this in mind. It's on 9,6V and 2000 mAh. Only thing is that it's a "transmitter battery". On the site they sell bot transmitter and reciever batteries, as well as just batteries.
I have no idea what the difference is or if it matters in this case.
But if I hooked a couple of these up in parallel, do the capacity increase? Is this the easiest way of doing it?
Ain't got no monkeys in my family.




Boy, am I glad this topic is still alive. I registered just to reply here.
I'm interested in the same thing you guys are, building a battery pack for my ESX and EMX. The obvious problem I had while I was doing the research to find the right type of battery was the 3000 mA quoted by the specs sheet.
But... if I read this thread correctly, it seems that it can be powered with lower mA if you gave up using the tube amps? Good thing, because I never use the tube amps anyway (too much noise, and if I were to use esx outside I'd probably use it with headphones - it's loud enough as is, I don't need the additional gain.)
I'll go and find myself a multimeter to measure which pins out of the adapter feeds power. I'm assuming there is no ground because the other end of the adapter has no ground plug.
Another idea I had was to use NiCd batteries & using solar panels in conjunction so that it continually feeds (while the sun is up) and provide back up power in the case the power feed is wavering. It doesn't seem all that impossible with something like this.
Let me know what you guys think, I'd like to contribute and get this battery pack going as soon as possible. Summer is here, after all
I'm interested in the same thing you guys are, building a battery pack for my ESX and EMX. The obvious problem I had while I was doing the research to find the right type of battery was the 3000 mA quoted by the specs sheet.
But... if I read this thread correctly, it seems that it can be powered with lower mA if you gave up using the tube amps? Good thing, because I never use the tube amps anyway (too much noise, and if I were to use esx outside I'd probably use it with headphones - it's loud enough as is, I don't need the additional gain.)
I'll go and find myself a multimeter to measure which pins out of the adapter feeds power. I'm assuming there is no ground because the other end of the adapter has no ground plug.
Another idea I had was to use NiCd batteries & using solar panels in conjunction so that it continually feeds (while the sun is up) and provide back up power in the case the power feed is wavering. It doesn't seem all that impossible with something like this.
Let me know what you guys think, I'd like to contribute and get this battery pack going as soon as possible. Summer is here, after all

I'm not even going to finish reading your post. I'm sick and tired of your bull. You take words too literally and don't listen to what is meant. Of course I meant Volts.
Behold! A MIDI cable!!!

pins 1/2 are connected, pin 3 gets taken out, pins 3/4 are connected... once again for your brain in particular, connected means they are connected on the power pcb inside the electribe. They are the two power connections, the shield is irrelevant.
Now since you're going to mention oh crap maybe I'm saying to plug that cable's other end into something else... No I don't mean that. I mean to cut off the other plug, strip it, and find either (pin 1 OR 2) AND (pin 3 OR 4) and that's what you connect to a battery(pack).
YES I DO realize that the numbering system is NOT the right numbering system. We don't need to learn technical numbering for a midi cable on a common knowledge message board so I'm simply going in order. If you hold the plug so you're looking at the pins, and you turn it so the middle pin is pointing toward the ceiling starting from the pin on the very left being 1 it goes from 1 to 5 clockwise.
Or like in the picture above, bottom most pin is pin 1, and then clockwise it goes 1-5.
I guess there is an alternative to a standard midi cable.... You said it. But in case you don't understand and are going to nit pick every tiny word I say that you misuse in your seemingly autistic way of thinking, I'll have to illustrate.Finally no, you cannot use a mini DIN cable because it is mini. Compare a MIDI (DIN-5) to an older (PS/2) keyboard or mouse, which is mini din (I think 4 or 5, haven't used one of those ancient things in years).
Behold! A MIDI cable!!!

pins 1/2 are connected, pin 3 gets taken out, pins 3/4 are connected... once again for your brain in particular, connected means they are connected on the power pcb inside the electribe. They are the two power connections, the shield is irrelevant.
Now since you're going to mention oh crap maybe I'm saying to plug that cable's other end into something else... No I don't mean that. I mean to cut off the other plug, strip it, and find either (pin 1 OR 2) AND (pin 3 OR 4) and that's what you connect to a battery(pack).
YES I DO realize that the numbering system is NOT the right numbering system. We don't need to learn technical numbering for a midi cable on a common knowledge message board so I'm simply going in order. If you hold the plug so you're looking at the pins, and you turn it so the middle pin is pointing toward the ceiling starting from the pin on the very left being 1 it goes from 1 to 5 clockwise.
Or like in the picture above, bottom most pin is pin 1, and then clockwise it goes 1-5.