Battarypack Electribe EMX
Moderators: Sharp, X-Trade, Pepperpotty, karmathanever
Well, I don't think you'd need to sacrifice it, per se. You can just plug it in and measure the output using a multimeter - although I don't see why you'd want to do that. We already know the voltage, ampere and wattage rating of the adapter. It's 9V, 3000 mA therefore 18 W.rtizrtiz wrote:well, if someone would cacrifice his/her power cable, which connects esx/emx and the power adapter, it would be able to measrue how much Ampers of current are running in the wire...
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klangsulfat
- Junior Member
- Posts: 75
- Joined: Fri Nov 02, 2007 7:00 am
- Location: Germany
At least in the ESX there is an internal circuit which converts the AC in a bipolar DC (+/- 15V) which is needed for the analog part. I can't believe that the ESX works when powered with DC.rtizrtiz wrote:the esx adapter shows, that it produces 9v AC, battery pack creates 9v DC - if you put the DC through the AC/DC conventor, which obviously must be inside the esx, it is able to boot up the esx. The OS booted up and loaded, i was able to select patterns and everything else, but there was no sound - so i figure that there is not enough power in the batteries to drive the Tube Amp.
I don't own an X-tribe (only an ES-1), but it sounds like it conforms to a standard bipolar power circuit audio device found in typical audio devices. So I'm describing this from a generic point of view, not from actual experience with an X.
The EMX will light up probably because the part of the circuit that runs the logic section (patterns, memory, display, buttons etc.) runs off +5V DC.
But the audio op-amp circuit runs off a bipolar power supply (+10, 0, -10V DC). Without the -10V component, it won't run.
The valve heating elements run off 6.3V DC, and the valve plates run off 100-200V DC.
The EMX power pack is AC because it can provide the + and - AC voltages needed to create the different +, 0 and - bipolar power rails to power the audio circuitry.
To get the audio circuit to run, you would need to hook up 2 battery packs - one to provide the -10V rail, and the other one to provide the +10V rail. The 0V rail is the common connection between the 2 batteries.
This sort of thing can be done, but it will need 2 x 10V battery packs.
I think that's why the power supply has 4 pins - they are the outputs of 2 transformers in the one power pack casing. I suspect 2 pins are hooked together - you could check this with a multimeter. So the whole transformer outputs 10V-0V-10V AC.
*****Be careful poking around inside the X electribes though - there are dangerous voltages in there to run the valves - 100-200V DC.******
This could easily kill you. It is produced by a DC inverter that runs off the +10V DC regulator in the EMX.
The EMX service manual should help a lot in this modification. It will help you know which pin is which on the power socket.
Anyone got the EMX service manual? Or even for the other X-electribes? the power circuit would be the same.
Cheers, graham
The EMX will light up probably because the part of the circuit that runs the logic section (patterns, memory, display, buttons etc.) runs off +5V DC.
But the audio op-amp circuit runs off a bipolar power supply (+10, 0, -10V DC). Without the -10V component, it won't run.
The valve heating elements run off 6.3V DC, and the valve plates run off 100-200V DC.
The EMX power pack is AC because it can provide the + and - AC voltages needed to create the different +, 0 and - bipolar power rails to power the audio circuitry.
To get the audio circuit to run, you would need to hook up 2 battery packs - one to provide the -10V rail, and the other one to provide the +10V rail. The 0V rail is the common connection between the 2 batteries.
This sort of thing can be done, but it will need 2 x 10V battery packs.
I think that's why the power supply has 4 pins - they are the outputs of 2 transformers in the one power pack casing. I suspect 2 pins are hooked together - you could check this with a multimeter. So the whole transformer outputs 10V-0V-10V AC.
*****Be careful poking around inside the X electribes though - there are dangerous voltages in there to run the valves - 100-200V DC.******
This could easily kill you. It is produced by a DC inverter that runs off the +10V DC regulator in the EMX.
The EMX service manual should help a lot in this modification. It will help you know which pin is which on the power socket.
Anyone got the EMX service manual? Or even for the other X-electribes? the power circuit would be the same.
Cheers, graham
gmeredith wrote:I don't own an X-tribe (only an ES-1), but it sounds like it conforms to a standard bipolar power circuit audio device found in typical audio devices. So I'm describing this from a generic point of view, not from actual experience with an X.
The EMX will light up probably because the part of the circuit that runs the logic section (patterns, memory, display, buttons etc.) runs off +5V DC.
But the audio op-amp circuit runs off a bipolar power supply (+10, 0, -10V DC). Without the -10V component, it won't run.
The valve heating elements run off 6.3V DC, and the valve plates run off 100-200V DC.
The EMX power pack is AC because it can provide the + and - AC voltages needed to create the different +, 0 and - bipolar power rails to power the audio circuitry.
To get the audio circuit to run, you would need to hook up 2 battery packs - one to provide the -10V rail, and the other one to provide the +10V rail. The 0V rail is the common connection between the 2 batteries.
This sort of thing can be done, but it will need 2 x 10V battery packs.
I think that's why the power supply has 4 pins - they are the outputs of 2 transformers in the one power pack casing. I suspect 2 pins are hooked together - you could check this with a multimeter. So the whole transformer outputs 10V-0V-10V AC.
*****Be careful poking around inside the X electribes though - there are dangerous voltages in there to run the valves - 100-200V DC.******
This could easily kill you. It is produced by a DC inverter that runs off the +10V DC regulator in the EMX.
The EMX service manual should help a lot in this modification. It will help you know which pin is which on the power socket.
Anyone got the EMX service manual? Or even for the other X-electribes? the power circuit would be the same.
Cheers, graham
Finally, someone who knows what the f*ck they ar talking about.
I still refuse to believe that Ruso got his working.
Yeah, I believe that is how my quadraverb powersupply is configured, for the same reason. I will measure it with my meter when I get home.I think that's why the power supply has 4 pins - they are the outputs of 2 transformers in the one power pack casing. I suspect 2 pins are hooked together - you could check this with a multimeter. So the whole transformer outputs 10V-0V-10V AC.
We could still use someone to measure the actual current draw of x-tribe.
We could also use someone to verify how much actually works when powered with 9~12v DC.
Once we find the answers to both of those we can design an efficient, inexpensive battery pack. At this point I am thinking 6xAA NiMH cells in series or 2 sets of 3 3.7v Li-Ion in parallel (each set of 3 Li-Ion cells is in series, then the two sets are in parallel)
There is no need to open your x-tribe for anything, so no worries about the high voltage for the tubes.
Ruso -- you bypassed your fuse? Why the f*ck would you do that? Fuses are there for a reason!
Ruso I wrote a lengthy reply detailing your foolish remarks but I have decided I am done. You don't know what you are talking about, and everyone who has read this thread knows that. Let's stop filling this thread with s**t and just try to get a battery pack working.
Hey, n3ldan, ur away a lot? 
Have you read my PM? Did you find it useful?
And please, no more flaming. Ruso ain't no worthless piece of crap of which you obviously think he is. He's contributing to this problem solving as much as anyone. Everybody screws up, and a lot of your fighting origin from misinterpretation. It's a common thing when writing on an Internet forum.
Now, let's all hug and find peace in our souls. Seriously.
Have you read my PM? Did you find it useful?And please, no more flaming. Ruso ain't no worthless piece of crap of which you obviously think he is. He's contributing to this problem solving as much as anyone. Everybody screws up, and a lot of your fighting origin from misinterpretation. It's a common thing when writing on an Internet forum.
Now, let's all hug and find peace in our souls. Seriously.
Ain't got no monkeys in my family.
I've not been away; the forum just hasn't been mailing me for some reason. The last time it told me there was a new post this thread was only on page 4!Borg wrote:Hey, n3ldan, ur away a lot?
And please, no more flaming. Ruso ain't no worthless piece of crap of which you obviously think he is. He's contributing to this problem solving as much as anyone. Everybody screws up, and a lot of your fighting origin from misinterpretation. It's a common thing when writing on an Internet forum.
Now, let's all hug and find peace in our souls. Seriously.
Ruso has repeatedly insulted me and other members and spread disinformation. I tried to explain the errors to him but he seemingly ignored my response.
If your battery pack really works, why not tell us how you came to it? You just decided to wire it up the way you did? Why'd you short the fuse? Why'd you try running up to 15v through it? Why did you decide to put DC through it when it was clearly marked AC?
If he could answer those questions maybe I wouldn't doubt his legitimacy so much.
I have little doubt he is a highly proficient electribe user and he is almost certainly a more talented musician than I, but he does not know enough about electronics to contribute to this thread. Not only does he lack the technical background, but his grammar is atrocious and his writing typically lacks essential details making his advice nearly useless. I assume that is due to the fact that Russian is his native language, but I wish he would put a bit more effort into writing clean, easy, detailed sentences.
I completely understand and accept mistakes. What I cannot stand is people who do not know what they are talking about and claim that they do. There is no way Ruso is an "expert" in anything even remotely related to electrical engineering if he doesn't know what a watt is. In my state, every 14-15 year old kid knows what a watt is; it's part of the physics curriculum which they are all required to complete.
I am a stubborn person, no doubt, but I do not see anywhere that I misinterpreted him, except when I thought he was saying to plug the modified MIDI cable into the x-tribe's power port and another midi device's midi out port. Even then, I gave him more credit than that and said that he probably didn't mean that because he knew about the 3A max current draw.
Whatever, I'm done. Ruso if you would care to answer any of my questions listed above I would appreciate it.
I busted out my multimeter on my alesis quadraverb power supply (for those unaware it has the same physical plug as the x-tribes and is also rated 9v AC). Interestingly, the first two pins (following ruso's numbering scheme, with the pins facing upwards like (.**.) ) had no voltage differential, and neither did the second two. The differential between the first and second groups was 9.2v AC.
Assuming that the powersupplies are electrically identical, Ruso's grouping is correct for 9v AC. If anyone can check by mimicking his setup and trying the battery either way then we can verify whether or not DC will work. My personal belief is that it will not, and I would not do this to my x-tribe. If any brave soul out there does, please let us know how it turned out
n3ldan:
Hey, don't go yet - I've only just started tuning in here!
I'm not sure how Ruso did it, if he has. He may have. Perhaps the X-tribes power supply isn't a standard design. I wish I had one - for so many reasons
Can you also try this on the EMX power supply (or the alesis one):
Switch your multimeter to OHMS setting - like a low range 200ohms or the minimum.
Don't plug in your EMX adapter - leave it unplugged.
Now check every pin against another, in ALL possible combinations. I'm hoping to find 2 pins that show ZERO ohms when they are measured. This will confirm my idea that 2 of the pins are connected, if they do.
If you DO find this, mark these 2 pins - these are your 0V pins. Now, switch your multimeter to the AC volts setting, low range (or whatever range is available to you). Connect the black multimeter to either one of these pins. Leave it there for all of the following measurements. Switch on your power pack. Connect the red probe to one of the other 2 free pins. You should get 9 or 10V AC, or something around there. Do the other free pin. You should geet the same figure. If so, you have found the 10V-0V-10V AC transformer configuration.
You can then connect up the dual battery setup to the equivalent pins on the EMX socket.
If you DONT find common pins:
Then it is still the same, but the transformers 0V lines link together inside the X-tribe, instead of in the power pack. You could find the common pins on the EMX SOCKET, in this case.
I've found a power supply diagram and edited it to be applicable to the X-tribe. Unfortunately I can't find how to upload it to this site, and I have no where I can store it to show a link to.
Can I email it to someone, and they can put it up for me?
The original generic diagram is found here, though, if you can imagine it adapted to the X-tribe:
http://www.quasarelectronics.com/kit-fi ... amppsu.pdf
It's the bottom diagram, labelled "standard circuit for a mains derived split rail power supply"
Cheers, Graham
Hey, don't go yet - I've only just started tuning in here!
I'm not sure how Ruso did it, if he has. He may have. Perhaps the X-tribes power supply isn't a standard design. I wish I had one - for so many reasons
I've got an alesis mixer that has the same power pack. I'll try it when I get home tonight.I busted out my multimeter on my alesis quadraverb power supply
Can you also try this on the EMX power supply (or the alesis one):
Switch your multimeter to OHMS setting - like a low range 200ohms or the minimum.
Don't plug in your EMX adapter - leave it unplugged.
Now check every pin against another, in ALL possible combinations. I'm hoping to find 2 pins that show ZERO ohms when they are measured. This will confirm my idea that 2 of the pins are connected, if they do.
If you DO find this, mark these 2 pins - these are your 0V pins. Now, switch your multimeter to the AC volts setting, low range (or whatever range is available to you). Connect the black multimeter to either one of these pins. Leave it there for all of the following measurements. Switch on your power pack. Connect the red probe to one of the other 2 free pins. You should get 9 or 10V AC, or something around there. Do the other free pin. You should geet the same figure. If so, you have found the 10V-0V-10V AC transformer configuration.
You can then connect up the dual battery setup to the equivalent pins on the EMX socket.
If you DONT find common pins:
Then it is still the same, but the transformers 0V lines link together inside the X-tribe, instead of in the power pack. You could find the common pins on the EMX SOCKET, in this case.
I've found a power supply diagram and edited it to be applicable to the X-tribe. Unfortunately I can't find how to upload it to this site, and I have no where I can store it to show a link to.
Can I email it to someone, and they can put it up for me?
The original generic diagram is found here, though, if you can imagine it adapted to the X-tribe:
http://www.quasarelectronics.com/kit-fi ... amppsu.pdf
It's the bottom diagram, labelled "standard circuit for a mains derived split rail power supply"
Cheers, Graham
look, s h i t - head quit accusing me of bullshit. You're making a complete ass of yourself. The only reason I disrespect you is because you keep accusing me of lying and keep making me sound like I don't know anything when you are the one that has obviously not tried a single one of these things. And quit acting like I'm pulling s h i t out of my ass and get off your ass and try some of these things before you can tell me I'm lying. I hope the only thing you're doing is making people look negatively at you. You don't come into a public place and start acting like you're the s**t and diss people.
I shorted the fuse WAY back in the day when I was circuit bending it, I accidentally touched the wrong pin.
15 volts because I had a 15 volt power supply laying arround that was DC so I could test to see that AC works.
I decided to put DC through it because after showing the circuit diagram to my brother, he sudgested trying DC because it will most likely power up....
It was also sudgested by him to use more power from a different type of battery.
now as for wiring up the way I did.... THEY ARE CONNECTED. It is shown in the circuit diagram for the power PCB of the electribe... Think I'm bull shitting you again?
This topic gave me the idea, I've been trying to do a portable electribe setup since way before then.If your battery pack really works, why not tell us how you came to it? You just decided to wire it up the way you did? Why'd you short the fuse? Why'd you try running up to 15v through it? Why did you decide to put DC through it when it was clearly marked AC?
I shorted the fuse WAY back in the day when I was circuit bending it, I accidentally touched the wrong pin.
15 volts because I had a 15 volt power supply laying arround that was DC so I could test to see that AC works.
I decided to put DC through it because after showing the circuit diagram to my brother, he sudgested trying DC because it will most likely power up....
It was also sudgested by him to use more power from a different type of battery.
now as for wiring up the way I did.... THEY ARE CONNECTED. It is shown in the circuit diagram for the power PCB of the electribe... Think I'm bull shitting you again?
AHHH!!! So it's only a SINGLE RAIL power supply!!! Good!!
Please everyone ignore everything I said in the previous post about the bipolar power supply - we have some X-tribe schematics here, thanks to Ruso!! I was only speculating the case, seeing I don't have an X-tribe - so disregard it.
You should only need 1 battery pack to do this.
The schematics show that it is just a simple AC --> DC conversion, using smoothing capacitors, chokes, and a diode D9 to do a "rough-as-guts" conversion to turn 10V-ish AC into about 10V DC. I'll bet that further on in the circuit is the actual voltage regulator circuit that cleans this rough DC voltage up and divides it into different voltages for the different parts of the circuit (and also to a high voltage step-up converter for the valve plates).
This is almost exactly the same type of conversion I did when I converted my Alesis MMT-8 sequencer to battery power. It originally ran off a simple 2-pin 9V AC plug pack. I did pretty much exactly the same as Ruso did in the EMX, but it was a bit simpler than the EMX. If anyone is interested in the Alesis MMT-8 battery conversion, they can find it here:
http://www.circuitbenders.co.uk/forum/i ... 520.0.html
I have also done the same conversion to a Boss DR660 drum machine, which runs off a 12AC plug pack.
The reason Ruso is able to use a higher voltage battery pack than 9V is because IT DOESN'T MATTER - in fact, it is better, within limits. If you put a 9V battery pack in it with insuffiient current capacity (mAH) the voltage will drop to a point where parts of the EMX circuit won't function correctly - hence the previous observation that the lights came on, but it still wouldn't function.
The voltage regulator inside the EMX is what protects the EMX from over-voltages, and can take a nominal range of DC, AC and rough voltages up to probably about 18V safely and yet still put out a constant clean supply of, say, 10V DC to the EMX. That's it's job. It needs to have that tolerance to handle mains voltage fluctuations, differences in power packs from different sources, etc.
I reckon a 12-15V DC plug pack at perhaps 1000-1500mA for testing this would be fine. If you DO go too high, though, like maybe 18V or over, you could overheat the voltage regulator and burn it out. It would more likely blow the fuse, though.
Regarding the necessary mAH capacity needed, I would probably say less than you realise. I would look at some Ni-cad or Ni-MH batteries of about 2500mAH, maybe higher. Depends on if you want to use AA size or larger sizes, and how long you want it to go for.
The EMX power supply rating consumption may be 3000mA, but that's because it's AC, and it has to get it converted to DC, with losses etc, and then also have at least 2x reserve capacity for the machine for power variations.
To give you an example, my converted Alesis MMT-8 pulls 290mA off a 9.6V DC battery pack, measured using a multimeter. It's original 9VAC plug pack was labelled as 1000mA. The 2600mAH Ni-MH used in the pack run it for 9-10 hours continuously.
If you're tapping directly in with DC, there isn't the losses associated with turning it from AC to DC.
--------------------------------------------
Now for a bit about measuring currents - for the sake of choosing battery sizes.
It's easy to measure DC current. Much more difficult to measure AC current. Most commercially available multimeters don't have the AC current facility. I suggest you do what Ruso did and use a 12 or 15V DC plug pack, just to establish that you can run it off DC first.
Once established, take a multimeter, and set its dial to the 10A range. You may also have to connect the probe to a different socket in the meter to access this range.
Now, make a cut in the +wire of the plug pack cable, and bare the wire ends in the cut. Connect the red +probe of the multimeter to the plug pack side bare end. Connect the black probe to the moulded plug side bare end. Plug in the plug into the X-tribe. Plug the DC plug pack into the mains power. Switch the mains power on.
Now switch the X-tribe on.
The meter will give a reading, eg. 0.75 or something. This means 0.75A = 750mA. (this is not the figure - it's just an example).
If the meter reads -0.75, that's cool - it just means that the probes are around the wrong way. It still gave you the reading: 0.75
If the X-tribe won't fire up when the meter is connected, but it did before, when using just the DC plug pack, then check your meter connections, especially which probe is plugged into which meter socket. It must be in the HIGH range mA socket (10A) and the meter dial must also be set to the 10A DC position.
When you finally come up with a figure, post it up here.
To work out battery sizes, if you find that the X-tribe pulled, say, 550mA DC at 12V DC, then theoretically a 12V DC, 550 mAH battery pack will run it for 1 hour. In practice, it's less, so you need to factor that in. So if you wanted to run the X-tribe for 5 hours continuously, you would need a 12DC battery pack of [550mAH x 5] = 2700mAH. But because of losses in the battery, say 3000mAH.
---------------------------------------
Ruso's results just go to show how valuable getting hold of the schematics can be. It can take the guesswork out of things like this. I collect service manuals and schematics for as much of my equipment as I can, even if I'm not going to do any mods to them - they're ALWAYS handy. If anyone can find the service manuals for any of the electribes, let us all know here!!
Cheers, Graham
Please everyone ignore everything I said in the previous post about the bipolar power supply - we have some X-tribe schematics here, thanks to Ruso!! I was only speculating the case, seeing I don't have an X-tribe - so disregard it.
You should only need 1 battery pack to do this.
The schematics show that it is just a simple AC --> DC conversion, using smoothing capacitors, chokes, and a diode D9 to do a "rough-as-guts" conversion to turn 10V-ish AC into about 10V DC. I'll bet that further on in the circuit is the actual voltage regulator circuit that cleans this rough DC voltage up and divides it into different voltages for the different parts of the circuit (and also to a high voltage step-up converter for the valve plates).
This is almost exactly the same type of conversion I did when I converted my Alesis MMT-8 sequencer to battery power. It originally ran off a simple 2-pin 9V AC plug pack. I did pretty much exactly the same as Ruso did in the EMX, but it was a bit simpler than the EMX. If anyone is interested in the Alesis MMT-8 battery conversion, they can find it here:
http://www.circuitbenders.co.uk/forum/i ... 520.0.html
I have also done the same conversion to a Boss DR660 drum machine, which runs off a 12AC plug pack.
The reason Ruso is able to use a higher voltage battery pack than 9V is because IT DOESN'T MATTER - in fact, it is better, within limits. If you put a 9V battery pack in it with insuffiient current capacity (mAH) the voltage will drop to a point where parts of the EMX circuit won't function correctly - hence the previous observation that the lights came on, but it still wouldn't function.
The voltage regulator inside the EMX is what protects the EMX from over-voltages, and can take a nominal range of DC, AC and rough voltages up to probably about 18V safely and yet still put out a constant clean supply of, say, 10V DC to the EMX. That's it's job. It needs to have that tolerance to handle mains voltage fluctuations, differences in power packs from different sources, etc.
I reckon a 12-15V DC plug pack at perhaps 1000-1500mA for testing this would be fine. If you DO go too high, though, like maybe 18V or over, you could overheat the voltage regulator and burn it out. It would more likely blow the fuse, though.
Regarding the necessary mAH capacity needed, I would probably say less than you realise. I would look at some Ni-cad or Ni-MH batteries of about 2500mAH, maybe higher. Depends on if you want to use AA size or larger sizes, and how long you want it to go for.
The EMX power supply rating consumption may be 3000mA, but that's because it's AC, and it has to get it converted to DC, with losses etc, and then also have at least 2x reserve capacity for the machine for power variations.
To give you an example, my converted Alesis MMT-8 pulls 290mA off a 9.6V DC battery pack, measured using a multimeter. It's original 9VAC plug pack was labelled as 1000mA. The 2600mAH Ni-MH used in the pack run it for 9-10 hours continuously.
If you're tapping directly in with DC, there isn't the losses associated with turning it from AC to DC.
--------------------------------------------
Now for a bit about measuring currents - for the sake of choosing battery sizes.
It's easy to measure DC current. Much more difficult to measure AC current. Most commercially available multimeters don't have the AC current facility. I suggest you do what Ruso did and use a 12 or 15V DC plug pack, just to establish that you can run it off DC first.
Once established, take a multimeter, and set its dial to the 10A range. You may also have to connect the probe to a different socket in the meter to access this range.
Now, make a cut in the +wire of the plug pack cable, and bare the wire ends in the cut. Connect the red +probe of the multimeter to the plug pack side bare end. Connect the black probe to the moulded plug side bare end. Plug in the plug into the X-tribe. Plug the DC plug pack into the mains power. Switch the mains power on.
Now switch the X-tribe on.
The meter will give a reading, eg. 0.75 or something. This means 0.75A = 750mA. (this is not the figure - it's just an example).
If the meter reads -0.75, that's cool - it just means that the probes are around the wrong way. It still gave you the reading: 0.75
If the X-tribe won't fire up when the meter is connected, but it did before, when using just the DC plug pack, then check your meter connections, especially which probe is plugged into which meter socket. It must be in the HIGH range mA socket (10A) and the meter dial must also be set to the 10A DC position.
When you finally come up with a figure, post it up here.
To work out battery sizes, if you find that the X-tribe pulled, say, 550mA DC at 12V DC, then theoretically a 12V DC, 550 mAH battery pack will run it for 1 hour. In practice, it's less, so you need to factor that in. So if you wanted to run the X-tribe for 5 hours continuously, you would need a 12DC battery pack of [550mAH x 5] = 2700mAH. But because of losses in the battery, say 3000mAH.
---------------------------------------
Ruso's results just go to show how valuable getting hold of the schematics can be. It can take the guesswork out of things like this. I collect service manuals and schematics for as much of my equipment as I can, even if I'm not going to do any mods to them - they're ALWAYS handy. If anyone can find the service manuals for any of the electribes, let us all know here!!
Cheers, Graham
Last edited by gmeredith on Thu May 15, 2008 7:07 am, edited 4 times in total.
Holy s**t ruso, you had a f*ck*ng schematic and didn't mention it or share it?!
Jesus christ, that would have saved us so much goddamn time.
Also, I AGREED with and CONFIRMED your pin out, I never claimed it was wrong.
I highly recommend you replace your fuse; a bit off topic but did you ever get any interesting results whilst bending your x-tribe?
So thank you ruso for posting a schem (btw where'd you get that? and why's it hosted on the t-mobile picture site....?) and thank you graham for analyzing it. I stand by my statement that ruso doesn't know jack s**t about electronics but knows plenty about electribes. It can now be said without a doubt that ruso contributed significantly to the solution. I still think you're a dumbass, especially if you had a schem and didn't post it. I apologize for doubting your legitimacy; such vague statements, lack of understanding of basic units of measure, and seemingly random reasoning led me to believe you were talking out of your ass. Clearly you were not, though I still don't understand why you waited so long to post the schem.
BTW graham, I did take resistance measurements for the wires earlier today, but neglected to mention them in my post because all the pins registered 0 ohms resistance relative to any other pin.
So, graham, why would korg use an AC power supply just to do a shitty AC-DC conversion inside the x-tribe? Seems like a waste of energy to me...
Jesus christ, that would have saved us so much goddamn time.
Also, I AGREED with and CONFIRMED your pin out, I never claimed it was wrong.
I highly recommend you replace your fuse; a bit off topic but did you ever get any interesting results whilst bending your x-tribe?
So thank you ruso for posting a schem (btw where'd you get that? and why's it hosted on the t-mobile picture site....?) and thank you graham for analyzing it. I stand by my statement that ruso doesn't know jack s**t about electronics but knows plenty about electribes. It can now be said without a doubt that ruso contributed significantly to the solution. I still think you're a dumbass, especially if you had a schem and didn't post it. I apologize for doubting your legitimacy; such vague statements, lack of understanding of basic units of measure, and seemingly random reasoning led me to believe you were talking out of your ass. Clearly you were not, though I still don't understand why you waited so long to post the schem.
BTW graham, I did take resistance measurements for the wires earlier today, but neglected to mention them in my post because all the pins registered 0 ohms resistance relative to any other pin.
So, graham, why would korg use an AC power supply just to do a shitty AC-DC conversion inside the x-tribe? Seems like a waste of energy to me...
Last edited by n3ldan on Thu May 15, 2008 2:58 am, edited 1 time in total.