HDR photo.

Wings · Post by **Wings** » Mon Mar 26, 2012 12:50 am

Any1 into HDR-photo, or did I not read good enough?

michelkeijzers · Post by **michelkeijzers** » Mon Mar 26, 2012 8:39 am

Very nice picture, for a HDR picture it is quite light though, I don't know if there are other elements you want to see in the picture, otherwise you should have made more overexposed pictures.

Wings · Post by **Wings** » Mon Mar 26, 2012 12:25 pm

What picture are you referring to?

michelkeijzers · Post by **michelkeijzers** » Fri Apr 20, 2012 10:59 am

The fb picture from the first pic.

I wonder now if it is a HDR pic, because it is dark (sorry I wrote light above). Why not make that pic in HDR (if possible) ... it would be even nicer.

Wings · Post by **Wings** » Fri Apr 20, 2012 11:21 am

Ok. If you are referring to my band FB-page, there's no HDR there, however in my personal FB-site, I have two HDR-albums.
Look up "Asgeir Kverulant Olsen" and take a look.

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michelkeijzers · Post by **michelkeijzers** » Fri Apr 20, 2012 11:31 am

Very nice pictures, most are quite exaggerated but I really like it (some don't I noticed from own experiences).

Btw, I also like the HDR pics of Bente en Peter, almost never saw HDR (like) pictures with people posing.

Btw, Norway is a beautiful country for pictures, I have been in Bergen and Oslo (but was not into photography, and still don't take much time for it), but HDR is my favorite style.

Wings · Post by **Wings** » Fri Apr 20, 2012 1:29 pm

Thank you for the nice comments.
Yes, they are exaggerated, but with intention.
Being that I have just started, I wanted to see the "max" effect in different motifs.
I am planning to buy a better camera, one where multiple exposures can be automated, 'cause in my current camera I have to set the under-/overexpo manually. And this always results in shifting of the motif, however minute.

michelkeijzers · Post by **michelkeijzers** » Fri Apr 20, 2012 2:06 pm

Yes I have a camera with 3 auto-pictures (can't recall the exact name) which sometimes is too less, -2, 0 to +2 EV but sometimes I need more.
Btw, I have a Canon EOS450D.

Only the higher models have a more wider range and 5 auto-pictures which is better for HDR pictures.

on the other hand, it's not such a problem to manually change the shutter length, as long as you use a tripod.

Wings · Post by **Wings** » Sat Apr 21, 2012 6:07 am

Yes, in most cases this is true, but even when using a tri-pod, if object is less than e.g. 50m away, shifting in the picture is evident.
Even when using a camera with automatic shutter and exposure-control, in near-photos you may see shifting as a result of shutter-motor vibrations.

But I will keep trying, and hopefully improve myself.

Thanks for the response.

michelkeijzers · Post by **michelkeijzers** » Sat Apr 21, 2012 11:46 am

It's advisable to use a infrared shutter, also on some cameras you can switch of the 'flipping' of the shutter manually.

Also for e.g. buildings, you can always use 100 ISO or even an ND filter and use very high shutter speeds (upto minutes?) which makes the shutter closing less visible.

Wings · Post by **Wings** » Sat Apr 21, 2012 1:28 pm

Excellent tip Michel.

However, I do have an infrared remote that I use...

And yes...the higher ISO the more "grain" in the picture.

Tiko · Post by **Tiko** » Mon Apr 23, 2012 11:51 am

And if you don't have a remote you can use the in-camera times (2 sec is good for this). Also mirror lock-up helps with the vibrations.

- Tiko

michelkeijzers · Post by **michelkeijzers** » Mon Apr 23, 2012 12:10 pm

Great tips, Tiko (actually I also meant mirror lock-up, but couldn't find the word) ... 2 sec for in-camera time is also working well.

And if you want to have nice 'stars' around light bulbs, use a high f value (f/16) or so ... it will greatly increase shutter speed, but for non movement objects it works well. This way shutter times of 5 mins are not unusual.

You can also use this for a building where occasionaly cars or people walk by. Use very high f value or an ND filter and use a shutter speed of minutes, someone walking by or driving by will not be visible on the picture (because it is only a very small portion of the complete exposure).

Tiko · Post by **Tiko** » Tue Apr 24, 2012 9:06 am

Slightly OT (but I am using the techniques discussed

): here's some of my time-lapse work: www.vimeo.com/tikograph/fall2011
Hope you check it out!

- Tiko

craig_c · Post by **craig_c** » Sat Dec 01, 2012 6:19 am

Nice work.
I have used HDR for some landscape work. Tripod and bracket -2ev 0 +2ev.
I am now finding that some of the more subtle adjustments I want from HDR I can achieve with a single capture using RAW converter.

Craig

http://www.craigcheatham.com